Camino: Via de la Plata: Day 2

I have accidentally become one of the pilgrims who goes without money. I had heard stories of people who do this, one from the Netherlands with just €5 in his pocket, relying on the hospitality of others to provide for him. He made it to Santiago with the €5 still in his pocket.

I had never intended to travel this way, but yesterday I was robbed of my cash. The Pilgrims Refugio refused to charge me the €10, and having no money I was in no position to argue. The Italian took me to dinner, and when I asked for company to the ATM he said not to worry I could relax and do that tomorrow. I had been fairly shaken, I didn't want to go to an ATM alone (I'm weary of them in Spain anyway due to the thieving of gypsies), so I said okay, I can repay you tomorrow.

Today I we hiked together and now I have tried the ATMs in this town, and neither of them worked. I called my bank and they said that they have no record of my trying and therefore it seems there is no communication and I should try another. They said my account is fine and there is money. There are no more ATMs here, but I have a bed for tonight (this one asks for a donation from pilgrims), and food for tomorrow and my Italian friend has fed me all day.

After yesterday's robbery I managed to have not 1 but 6 bodyguards for today's walking: The Italian, the 4 Spaniards, and another Spaniard who had been hiking alone. They are all older men and nobody speaks English, but I've appreciated their company.

My Spanish is re-emerging well. I had hardly spoken it for 3.5 years, but yesterday I had the big test of describing the thieves and events in Spanish for an official police testimony. Four of the Spanish companions speak Andalusian Spanish so I often have trouble understanding them, in fact it is easiest to talk with the Italian.

The hike today and yesterday (although overshadowed by other events) was spectacular. I have passed fields of wheat, beets, olive trees, oranges trees, and acorn trees (acorns are to feed the Iberian pigs). Some portions of the walk have been beside roads, but mostly it's been on paths through the countryside. Uncultivated soils, like those beneath the trees or beside the roads, are covered in wildflowers. It's like the best possible cottage garden, only endless in size. I recognize daisies of varying types, red poppies, rosemary and lavender; but there are so many more flowers. I have seen herds of cows: both dairy and beef, goats on a farm for producing goats cheeses, and many beautiful Spanish horses. The villages are pretty and well cared for. Yesterday I also passed roman ruins, but as it was raining I kept walking with barely a glance in their direction.

At the end of day 2 my leg muscles are feeling it. I wonder what my legs will be like at the end? I didn't prepare for the camino... Although I walked a lot in India I didn't have much opportunity for country hiking.

Twice today we passed men with knives. I was surprised and untrusting after yesterday's events, but they were simply picking wild asparagus.

Hopefully tomorrow I'll get money. At any rate we have a big day ahead: 30kms!