Cricket, chiseled rock for stumps.
Cricket bat manufacture and sales beside the road.
Gol Gumbaz.... beautiful in form and acoustics.
Tuesday 26 February 2013
Photo's: Hampi
Hampi is beautiful and interesting
A view of the countryside.
Cycling for the day with my French friend.
Sunset through the Frangipani from the Hanuman Temple.
Looking across the rice paddy fields to where I stayed.
Love it!
Crowd surfing on Mumbai trains
I might be traumatised by this. Certainly when I saw a crowded train the next day I said 'Louise, can you go without me?' , but then the women's compartment wasn't anywhere near full so I got in...
On Saturday when Louise and I were out sightseeing (Mumbai) we caught a busy suburban train. As is often the way here we had to push our way into the carriage as it really was full already.
But, being that it was full, I got in but not really very far in. At the next stop almost everybody is departing. Indian trains don't wait (I guess they can't, the Indians just keep coming so they'd never get away), so everybody rushes and pushes to get off. I'm in the middle, holding on up the top, trying desperately to hold my ground and not be forced off. It was scary. They keep coming like I'm not there and they can walk through me. My feet even come off the floor, but I'm still hanging on up top ! Somehow I managed to hold on and stay on the train.
Taxi's are cheap enough, unless I have company I don't think I will do another suburban train.
Mumbai, though, has been a nice experience. (5 nights, 1 in horrible cheap hotel, 4 with friends, 21-26 Feb).
Most interesting was the visit to the Dharavi slum... That's a lot of people and industry in one small area (I read different reports but its something like 175 hectares, over 1 million people). We went on a tour that gives back 80% of profits to a NGO. The polluted creek brought tears to my eyes. It smelt terrible and the water was a strange blue.
Notes: The tour was with Reality Tours. Lots of other operators pretend to be them, but when we couldn't find them we called them and booked directly. It was worth it.
On Saturday when Louise and I were out sightseeing (Mumbai) we caught a busy suburban train. As is often the way here we had to push our way into the carriage as it really was full already.
But, being that it was full, I got in but not really very far in. At the next stop almost everybody is departing. Indian trains don't wait (I guess they can't, the Indians just keep coming so they'd never get away), so everybody rushes and pushes to get off. I'm in the middle, holding on up the top, trying desperately to hold my ground and not be forced off. It was scary. They keep coming like I'm not there and they can walk through me. My feet even come off the floor, but I'm still hanging on up top ! Somehow I managed to hold on and stay on the train.
Taxi's are cheap enough, unless I have company I don't think I will do another suburban train.
Mumbai, though, has been a nice experience. (5 nights, 1 in horrible cheap hotel, 4 with friends, 21-26 Feb).
Most interesting was the visit to the Dharavi slum... That's a lot of people and industry in one small area (I read different reports but its something like 175 hectares, over 1 million people). We went on a tour that gives back 80% of profits to a NGO. The polluted creek brought tears to my eyes. It smelt terrible and the water was a strange blue.
Notes: The tour was with Reality Tours. Lots of other operators pretend to be them, but when we couldn't find them we called them and booked directly. It was worth it.
Monday 25 February 2013
Transport strike
Aye aye aye aye...
It is 20 Feb and I am in a town called Bijapur, and there is a bus strike. I saw it on the news last night but since I had been at the bus station at 6pm making enquiries and the news report was only referencing it to the cities I figured my intended bus would still be running.
So I got ready early, got to the bus station and found nothing happening. Just a lot of staff hanging around. One was kind enough to tell me that it was about fuel prices and so the trains would still be running. So I have come to the train station.
My destination is Mumbai. I need to be there tomorrow to meet Louise, so although I had thought of stopping on the way, with the transport strike I have decided to go the whole way.
The direct train was sold out. So now I will change 3 times to get there. But at least I have a solution.
I have a 2 hour wait for the first train... But at least the train is quicker than the bus. So I leave 2.5 hrs later and arrive just 1 hour later.
Btw, Bijapur is well worth stopping in, people are really pleasant and the main sight Gul Gumbaz is awesome, particular if you can get there before the noisy Indians (it opens 6am, I got there at 8, and with just me, a man singing, and another man the whispering gallery sounds were splendid. Then a crowd of noisy Indians arrived.)
It is 20 Feb and I am in a town called Bijapur, and there is a bus strike. I saw it on the news last night but since I had been at the bus station at 6pm making enquiries and the news report was only referencing it to the cities I figured my intended bus would still be running.
So I got ready early, got to the bus station and found nothing happening. Just a lot of staff hanging around. One was kind enough to tell me that it was about fuel prices and so the trains would still be running. So I have come to the train station.
My destination is Mumbai. I need to be there tomorrow to meet Louise, so although I had thought of stopping on the way, with the transport strike I have decided to go the whole way.
The direct train was sold out. So now I will change 3 times to get there. But at least I have a solution.
I have a 2 hour wait for the first train... But at least the train is quicker than the bus. So I leave 2.5 hrs later and arrive just 1 hour later.
Btw, Bijapur is well worth stopping in, people are really pleasant and the main sight Gul Gumbaz is awesome, particular if you can get there before the noisy Indians (it opens 6am, I got there at 8, and with just me, a man singing, and another man the whispering gallery sounds were splendid. Then a crowd of noisy Indians arrived.)
Saturday 23 February 2013
Tattooing at 6
Yesterday, in Hampi, I met a fruit seller. I had been admiring the simple work of a young woman as she decorated the dirt floor of the gateway of a guesthouse by making a design on the ground with white powder (as described in a previous post, called Colom).
The fruit seller had simple English, "my daughter" she said with a smile.
This turned my attention to the fruit seller. She had tattoos on her face, faded teardrop shapes going sideways from the outer edge of both eyes and more of these on her chin. I understand these were done when she was about 6. Her forearms and hands were also covered in designs, similar to those done in henna tattooing, but real tattoos, faded grey. She said she got these at 10. She said it with sadness.
I asked her if the tattoos on her arms were for marriage. I will never know if we fully understood each other, but she said yes. Selling fruit in the tourist part of Hampi meant she could speak some English.
Her oldest child was the one doing the decorations, she is 15. Her youngest is a baby that she breastfed while we were there. She has 7 children. Although she looked older, she said she is 32. Selling fruit in the sun and having 7 children could make a person look older.
I hope her daughters have a better life. I think they will.
I didn't take any photos as I didn't want to make a spectacle of this. But I did buy some fruit.
The fruit seller had simple English, "my daughter" she said with a smile.
This turned my attention to the fruit seller. She had tattoos on her face, faded teardrop shapes going sideways from the outer edge of both eyes and more of these on her chin. I understand these were done when she was about 6. Her forearms and hands were also covered in designs, similar to those done in henna tattooing, but real tattoos, faded grey. She said she got these at 10. She said it with sadness.
I asked her if the tattoos on her arms were for marriage. I will never know if we fully understood each other, but she said yes. Selling fruit in the tourist part of Hampi meant she could speak some English.
Her oldest child was the one doing the decorations, she is 15. Her youngest is a baby that she breastfed while we were there. She has 7 children. Although she looked older, she said she is 32. Selling fruit in the sun and having 7 children could make a person look older.
I hope her daughters have a better life. I think they will.
I didn't take any photos as I didn't want to make a spectacle of this. But I did buy some fruit.
Travels: Hampi
After Agonda beach (Goa) I headed to Hampi, stopping overnight at Hubli on the way. (Hubli is my cheapest night yet and so it wasn't very nice, but the first 5 places we went to have no vacancies, and it was late).
As I left Goa I met a French girl (22yrs) and we teamed up for Hubli and Hampi.
Hampi is a really touristy spot ... the most touristy spot I have been to in India, aside from Goa. Tourists were dressed inappropriate for India, and with a splash of cleanliness and western food it too isn't like the real India.
Most people I spoke to seemed to have arrived into Mumbai, spent some weeks in Goa and were now spending weeks in Hampi. These people were really seeing a different side of India to what I was. They were also taking plenty of drugs.
Most people, myself included, choose to stay across the river in Hampi. Yesterday as I caught the boat across for the last time a young woman (with her man) was dressed in a boob tube and capri's with a shoulder wrap. The young Indian man who drove the boat gets to see a lot of inappropriate dress, but this was too much and he told her that she shouldn't dress this way in India. Good for him, but likewise I think that we should tell the same to those wearing burkas in Australia (because bank robbers only show their eyes).
Hampi deserves being on the must visit list for India. The landscape is captivating, and in it are impressive ruins from previous times of prosperity... Although I fail to see how the terrain could ever have supported the half million people the books tell of.
Accom: Manju's palace. Rates from Rs70 for space on the roof to Rs700 for a pleasant room for 2. I liked Manju's, but the crowd wasn't for me.. All smoking, and sitting around instead of travelling.
As I left Goa I met a French girl (22yrs) and we teamed up for Hubli and Hampi.
Hampi is a really touristy spot ... the most touristy spot I have been to in India, aside from Goa. Tourists were dressed inappropriate for India, and with a splash of cleanliness and western food it too isn't like the real India.
Most people I spoke to seemed to have arrived into Mumbai, spent some weeks in Goa and were now spending weeks in Hampi. These people were really seeing a different side of India to what I was. They were also taking plenty of drugs.
Most people, myself included, choose to stay across the river in Hampi. Yesterday as I caught the boat across for the last time a young woman (with her man) was dressed in a boob tube and capri's with a shoulder wrap. The young Indian man who drove the boat gets to see a lot of inappropriate dress, but this was too much and he told her that she shouldn't dress this way in India. Good for him, but likewise I think that we should tell the same to those wearing burkas in Australia (because bank robbers only show their eyes).
Hampi deserves being on the must visit list for India. The landscape is captivating, and in it are impressive ruins from previous times of prosperity... Although I fail to see how the terrain could ever have supported the half million people the books tell of.
Accom: Manju's palace. Rates from Rs70 for space on the roof to Rs700 for a pleasant room for 2. I liked Manju's, but the crowd wasn't for me.. All smoking, and sitting around instead of travelling.
Sunday 17 February 2013
Photos: Goa (aside from Carnival)
Markets in Goa... same stuff as elsewhere on the tourist trail.
Goa is cleaner than other parts of India... but still filthy in many parts.
But, Panjim (the Capital) is nice for it's old houses:
Then, Agonda Beach... the beach huts...
my beach hut:-
The street:
Photos: Goa Carnival
The Carnival in Panjim had everything to make a great carnival... aside from the Indian audience looking bored and unappreciating.
Some displays were big and colourful.
Some displays seemed politically incorrect.
This little display is just the girl and her dad. Her shirt says "Stop Child Labour".
An anti-smoking float "Journey to Death"
In other parts of the world the girls are barely dressed in carnival, but in India it's the men who bare their bum (showing a traditional work method).
And finally, it seemed that some ladies were dressed more carnival like (in cheer leader type clothes), but they had full beige body suits on under the sexy cloths, and were also protected behind a screen. Only in India...!
Many displays were for public improvement.
I spent a couple of hours watching the parade, then I wondered where the other foreigners were. I found them at the pub, covered in coloured powders. I left them to it and went and found the dancing.
I found the dancing. Mostly male. Some of them were annoying,
but security made sure I knew they were there to help me if I needed help.
Saturday 16 February 2013
Photos: Bangalore
5 days in Bangalore...
The local version of Coke is Thumbs Up, and it is made by Coca-Cola these days. I give it a thumbs up.
Oh, and the head scarf... keeping the pollution out of my hair, India is a hard place to keep clean in.
(Hindu) Temple offerings.
We were horrified by this vehicle that was dumping rubbish into a city street. At the site stray dogs and rats gathered.
One of the quirky things about India. Louise has a video camera, and, perhaps because it's bigger, Indians always ask her to take their photo. Here she is offering them a look.
The squirrels usually run to the other side of the tree to hide, but this tree was too big and this one was aiming for camouflage.
Travels: Goa
When I arrived in Goa I was really confused as to what to do. I had had a sleepless night on a comfortable overnight bus from Bangalore, and didn't know what to do. (Sleepless due to road conditions and driving method).
I had breakfast and bought a ticket to travel north, got on the bus and met a fellow traveller who said I shouldn't just leave Panjim immediately, as it was worth a few days. So I abandoned my 20c ticket and got off the bus.
Indeed he was right, Goa's little capital Panjim is a lovely spot. And carnival was scheduled for the weekend so I ended up staying 4 nights.
Highlights for me were visiting a Spice Plantation and being there for the fun of carnival. I will explain carnival with so photos some time.
After Panjim I headed to Agonda Beach. It's a lovely place. As I'm not really a beach person I planned to spend just 1 night there, but ended up staying for 3. Just relaxing, reading, swimming, walking, eating.
But, as they say... Goa isn't the real India.
I had breakfast and bought a ticket to travel north, got on the bus and met a fellow traveller who said I shouldn't just leave Panjim immediately, as it was worth a few days. So I abandoned my 20c ticket and got off the bus.
Indeed he was right, Goa's little capital Panjim is a lovely spot. And carnival was scheduled for the weekend so I ended up staying 4 nights.
Highlights for me were visiting a Spice Plantation and being there for the fun of carnival. I will explain carnival with so photos some time.
After Panjim I headed to Agonda Beach. It's a lovely place. As I'm not really a beach person I planned to spend just 1 night there, but ended up staying for 3. Just relaxing, reading, swimming, walking, eating.
But, as they say... Goa isn't the real India.
A love story, or not
I've just spent a week in Goa. I had a wonderful time in the capital Paniji (Panjim), and on Agonda Beach.
At Agonda beach I saw many young Indian men with foreign women; both young and older. I even had a Kashmiri 9 years my junior insisting I should drink chai and take long walks on the beach with him. It reminded me of the history of an old friend. I'll tell you this story. Names are changed.
Jill was in her early 30's and travelling around the world when she went to Goa. There she met a fit young man from Nepal who was residing in Goa. They started a relationship (or holiday fling). When she left she vowed to return. She was in love.
When she told me about it I was skeptical about his intentions, although I hadn't met him. She said he could get a visa to the UK without her assistance and so she thought his intentions were fine.
She returned to Goa. They decided they would be together, in her home, in the UK. But, it turned out that getting him a visa wasn't easy. They had to get married, show lots of proof of the relationship, and wait considerable time for the application to be approved. Jill was happy to do this, she was in love.
After 2 years he was entitled to citizenship (or was it residency?, but it was enough), and he recieved this. Almost immediately after this he told Jill that he didn't want to live in the UK anymore, that he wasn't happy. She reluctantly signed the paperwork for the divorce, as they agreed that it would be even more difficult for her to live in Nepal. He returned to Nepal.
Then, a few months latter he returned to the same suburb of London to live with his new Nepalese bride.
The End.
Sad huh? Of course many will say better to have loved and lost but it keeps me being extra skeptical.
Sorry Mr Kashmiri, not a chance with me.
At Agonda beach I saw many young Indian men with foreign women; both young and older. I even had a Kashmiri 9 years my junior insisting I should drink chai and take long walks on the beach with him. It reminded me of the history of an old friend. I'll tell you this story. Names are changed.
Jill was in her early 30's and travelling around the world when she went to Goa. There she met a fit young man from Nepal who was residing in Goa. They started a relationship (or holiday fling). When she left she vowed to return. She was in love.
When she told me about it I was skeptical about his intentions, although I hadn't met him. She said he could get a visa to the UK without her assistance and so she thought his intentions were fine.
She returned to Goa. They decided they would be together, in her home, in the UK. But, it turned out that getting him a visa wasn't easy. They had to get married, show lots of proof of the relationship, and wait considerable time for the application to be approved. Jill was happy to do this, she was in love.
After 2 years he was entitled to citizenship (or was it residency?, but it was enough), and he recieved this. Almost immediately after this he told Jill that he didn't want to live in the UK anymore, that he wasn't happy. She reluctantly signed the paperwork for the divorce, as they agreed that it would be even more difficult for her to live in Nepal. He returned to Nepal.
Then, a few months latter he returned to the same suburb of London to live with his new Nepalese bride.
The End.
Sad huh? Of course many will say better to have loved and lost but it keeps me being extra skeptical.
Sorry Mr Kashmiri, not a chance with me.
Tuesday 12 February 2013
Travels: Bangalore
I had 4 nights in Bangalore. I paid for a fifth night too, but left Louise there on her own and hopped on a night bus to Goa.
We had extra time in Bangalore because Louise was looking for some family history in church records. I think we visited 5 churches, but we only managed to exhaust ourselves. The sought after information was never found.
Bangalore will hold a fond place in my heart, if only for "The Only Place" - a steak restaurant that, although it wasn't the most wonderful steak ever, was good and was needed.
I will also remember Louise playing the part of little old bat when she abused a motorcyclist for riding on the footpath. (he had the audacity to come up behind me and toot for me to move aside, I squawked in alarm and little Louise stepped in front of his bike, dared him to run her over and told him to get back on the road. Other pedestrians and motorists (on the road) backed her up, I stood an watched). Just a day earlier a scooter rider had almost run me other while I was in a bus stand.
Sights? I enjoyed the Bangalore Rounds tour (although it didn't have the ecstasy promised - see blog Promises, Promises). The botanical gardens are nice. And I really liked the visit to ISKON (the Hare Krisna temple).
Notes:
Accom: Hotel Adora. Twin Rs780. Near Majestic bus stand.
Bangalore Rounds. Rs250. From bus stand.
We had extra time in Bangalore because Louise was looking for some family history in church records. I think we visited 5 churches, but we only managed to exhaust ourselves. The sought after information was never found.
Bangalore will hold a fond place in my heart, if only for "The Only Place" - a steak restaurant that, although it wasn't the most wonderful steak ever, was good and was needed.
I will also remember Louise playing the part of little old bat when she abused a motorcyclist for riding on the footpath. (he had the audacity to come up behind me and toot for me to move aside, I squawked in alarm and little Louise stepped in front of his bike, dared him to run her over and told him to get back on the road. Other pedestrians and motorists (on the road) backed her up, I stood an watched). Just a day earlier a scooter rider had almost run me other while I was in a bus stand.
Sights? I enjoyed the Bangalore Rounds tour (although it didn't have the ecstasy promised - see blog Promises, Promises). The botanical gardens are nice. And I really liked the visit to ISKON (the Hare Krisna temple).
Notes:
Accom: Hotel Adora. Twin Rs780. Near Majestic bus stand.
Bangalore Rounds. Rs250. From bus stand.
Promises, promises
Indian advertising has me quite amused. Here are some examples:
skin whitening creams that make one smarter,
jewellery that makes her forget true love and find happiness in an arranged marriage.
Black tea that kills the influenza virus (see photo).
Glucose sweets that enable your child to outrun the savage dog.
And,lasty, the brochure for the Bangalore City Tour (Bangalore Rounds), which we signed up for (how could we not?!):
"A dream passage through a city with a golden past, a fabulous present and a promising future-
"9 hours of non-stop surprises, discoveries, fun and adventure.
"A heady mix of history and LORE, ecstasy & thrill, enriching your soul, soothing your mind and your body.
The salubrious environs ..."
You get the picture?
It was a good tour, but they did exaggerate a bit.
skin whitening creams that make one smarter,
jewellery that makes her forget true love and find happiness in an arranged marriage.
Black tea that kills the influenza virus (see photo).
Glucose sweets that enable your child to outrun the savage dog.
And,lasty, the brochure for the Bangalore City Tour (Bangalore Rounds), which we signed up for (how could we not?!):
"A dream passage through a city with a golden past, a fabulous present and a promising future-
"9 hours of non-stop surprises, discoveries, fun and adventure.
"A heady mix of history and LORE, ecstasy & thrill, enriching your soul, soothing your mind and your body.
The salubrious environs ..."
You get the picture?
It was a good tour, but they did exaggerate a bit.
Photo's: Mysore
Mysore Palace: Beautiful day and night!
Arty.
Coconuts and lotus flowers for temple blessings.
Yes, I had the old man's permission to take his photo.
Love it! The people inside the cage are queuing to get in a temple. The monkey watches from outside! Reverse zoo!
Market scene.
Heading to market.
The fortune tellers always want to tell my fortune. But aside from offering this service they don't speak English... So I always decline their offer.
Disposable plates. Made by stitching leaves together.
Vegetables at the market. So neat.
Take away dinner from street vendors. The 40c omelet is nicely wrapped in a leaf and newspaper, and I added a paratha (type of bread) from another seller.
Photo's: more Tamil Nadu
Me, taking in the view and avoiding he smells from the third class train window. (Tamil Nadu)
Chennai Beach front: Perhaps the widest beach I have seen.
Chennai slums: Living among the litter.
Baby monkey in a Temple water trough.
Wednesday 6 February 2013
The best of Crass
We spent a whole week in Mysore. It didn't need that much time but Louise didn't want to be in Bangalore before Feb 1, and so we hung out there.
On one of the days we took a day tour. For me it was a lesson in Indian Stretchable time (IST) and Indian lies. IST because at the very first stop we were told to return in "20 minutes or 30 minutes, be here at 10.30". It was 9.30am, so 10.30 meant an hour.
At each stop we were given a variable deadline, and at each stop the Indian tourists (everybody else) took more than the maximum given time. It was driving me insane. And then this is where a lie was delivered.
I guess with full expansion of the IST we ran out of time because we didn't visit Tipu Sultans summer palace as of the itinerary (it was one of the attractions we were looking forward to). When we asked we were told that it was closed for the day so that was why we weren't visiting it. We had doubts about this, but went along with it.
Two days later when I was in the tourist office the man there asked me if I had seen this palace, I said no, we went on the tour on Tuesday but it was closed for a holiday. No, he said, that's not true, there have been no holidays this week.
The day actually started out with some mild corruption. We had been told by the KSRTC office (govt run buses, including tourist services) not to pre-book but turn up on the day to book the tour. On the day we were told that the KSRTC didn't have enough people on the tour but we could do another tour, same itinerary, for Rs150 each and Rs50 each to the driver. ( this actually was slightly cheaper than KSRTC). Then the KSRTC man asked us to pay Rs150 direct to him. He promptly put this in his top pocket. I asked for a receipt, he said he couldn't. I insisted and got the 150 back to pay directly to the next place. In the end we got a tour but no receipts. Other people had the KSRTC brochure too, so I guess that the govt tour doesn't run because the office guy pockets money this way. Hopefully someone reads this!
But now, you might be wondering about the crass?? Well, although we missed that palace I don't care because we got to go in the evening to the Brindavan gardens to see a fountain (of about 4 x 4m) lit up under changing coloured lights and dancing to the sound of Bollywood tunes. This was so crass it was wonderful! ... Made all the better by the couple of thousand Indians who cheered and applauded its dynamic (I'm exaggerating) moves. Louise was speechless (this is rare), I did showed my enthusiasm with a seated dance (much to the amusement if those around).
Aside from that, the only other part of the day that really got my attention was a broken coconut area outside a temple. Hindus would break a coconut here as offering to a god. But one young man had a big bag of coconuts and was rapidly breaking them, one by one, with all his might. We figured he must've been naughty and this was the Hindu equivalent of the Catholic hail Mary's.
Finally, the most wonderful thing about Mysore is its palace. It is magnificent, and the audio tour is particularly good. Put it on your list with the dancing fountain!
Notes:
Mysore: 25 Jan - 1 Feb, 5 nights Mannars lodge Rs650 twin share, 2 nights Youth Hotel HI, dorm Rs100 (I went without Louise). Bus Bangalore to Mysore Rs110 3hours. Bus Vellore to Bangalore Rs144 5hours.
On one of the days we took a day tour. For me it was a lesson in Indian Stretchable time (IST) and Indian lies. IST because at the very first stop we were told to return in "20 minutes or 30 minutes, be here at 10.30". It was 9.30am, so 10.30 meant an hour.
At each stop we were given a variable deadline, and at each stop the Indian tourists (everybody else) took more than the maximum given time. It was driving me insane. And then this is where a lie was delivered.
I guess with full expansion of the IST we ran out of time because we didn't visit Tipu Sultans summer palace as of the itinerary (it was one of the attractions we were looking forward to). When we asked we were told that it was closed for the day so that was why we weren't visiting it. We had doubts about this, but went along with it.
Two days later when I was in the tourist office the man there asked me if I had seen this palace, I said no, we went on the tour on Tuesday but it was closed for a holiday. No, he said, that's not true, there have been no holidays this week.
The day actually started out with some mild corruption. We had been told by the KSRTC office (govt run buses, including tourist services) not to pre-book but turn up on the day to book the tour. On the day we were told that the KSRTC didn't have enough people on the tour but we could do another tour, same itinerary, for Rs150 each and Rs50 each to the driver. ( this actually was slightly cheaper than KSRTC). Then the KSRTC man asked us to pay Rs150 direct to him. He promptly put this in his top pocket. I asked for a receipt, he said he couldn't. I insisted and got the 150 back to pay directly to the next place. In the end we got a tour but no receipts. Other people had the KSRTC brochure too, so I guess that the govt tour doesn't run because the office guy pockets money this way. Hopefully someone reads this!
But now, you might be wondering about the crass?? Well, although we missed that palace I don't care because we got to go in the evening to the Brindavan gardens to see a fountain (of about 4 x 4m) lit up under changing coloured lights and dancing to the sound of Bollywood tunes. This was so crass it was wonderful! ... Made all the better by the couple of thousand Indians who cheered and applauded its dynamic (I'm exaggerating) moves. Louise was speechless (this is rare), I did showed my enthusiasm with a seated dance (much to the amusement if those around).
Aside from that, the only other part of the day that really got my attention was a broken coconut area outside a temple. Hindus would break a coconut here as offering to a god. But one young man had a big bag of coconuts and was rapidly breaking them, one by one, with all his might. We figured he must've been naughty and this was the Hindu equivalent of the Catholic hail Mary's.
Finally, the most wonderful thing about Mysore is its palace. It is magnificent, and the audio tour is particularly good. Put it on your list with the dancing fountain!
Notes:
Mysore: 25 Jan - 1 Feb, 5 nights Mannars lodge Rs650 twin share, 2 nights Youth Hotel HI, dorm Rs100 (I went without Louise). Bus Bangalore to Mysore Rs110 3hours. Bus Vellore to Bangalore Rs144 5hours.
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