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Tuesday 27 July 2010

Life in Iquitos Peru... the hard bed, mosquitos and dirt.

   As mentioned in other posts, while I was volunteering at the manatee centre, I was lucky enough to be hosted by a Peruvian family. These people weren't rich, but they showed me tremendous generousity. The wouldn't let me pay for my keep and fed me two meals a day. I found that the best way for me to contribute was to head to the supermarket and buy food for the entire family. My purchases were limited, as they tend to shope daily, but by buying rice and sugar and such I'm sure I helped. When I left I bought a big hamper of groceries and left it with them on the very last day. They seemed delighted. These people usually buy for today... a cup of rice today, another tomorrow, what meat and vegetables are needed for today are bought today, and no more than two rolls of toilet paper at a time. Most dry goods were bought from the convenience store next store.
    Living with them was very interesting. Had I been paying for accomodation I would have wanted something more comfortable and cleaner, but, I just reminded myself that many people successfully live like this (or worse) their entire lives, and these people seemed healthy enough. And I covered the bed with my hammock (thick cotton barrier), my sleeping bag (a little softness), and covered me with my silk sleep sheet (to keep the mosquitoes away). Even the cat realised my bedding was better, and I had daily fights with the cat who I would find spawled across my bed. There was no way of keeping the cat out.
   The families generousity wan't just financial, they treated me well too and the mother said she would miss the only person who ever offered to wash up (and would then wash up) after a meal (peruvian culture seems to have their children not having to raise a finger, despite all 3 being over 15 years old). I hope I never have to sleep so uncomfortably for a whole month again unless the scenery is spectacular, but I really appreciate what they did for me. Overall it was a worthwhile experience.

Saturday 24 July 2010

Living in Iquitos

Iquitos, Amazon Jungle, Peru

Written whilst staying with Peruvian Iquitiarian family, but publish later to save chance of offending while I would have to deal with consequences.

   I couldn´t cope anymore, after just a while of living with the local family I went and bought toilet cleaner, a brush, and gloves. And I scrubbed and scrubbed the toilet that may never had been cleaned in their many years of living in the house. It looked so much nicer afterwards.
   I didn´t do it at first because I was worried about offending them, but the filth got too much and I decided it was worth the risk. Anyway, when the harpic toilet cleaner was advertised on the television and they all looked longily at the screen I thought hell, even they realise it 's dirty!

Friday 23 July 2010

When will I be home?

   When I left Australia last year I had planned to travel indefinately, with no planned date for return. I bought a return ticket, because the price was two thirds that of a one way ticket, and crossing borders can be easier if you have something that says you are going home. The return ticket date could also be changed (for a fee), so it makes a handy safety net.
   Last time I had planned to travel indefinately I was in Central America. One day I told my family that I intended to keep heading south and that I wouldn't be home anytime soon. I reckon it must have been about 1 week later that I received 2 terrible emails. One from my Mum saying "Call home immediately" and another from my brother saying "Don't call Mum, call me". I called my brother. Dad had had a stroke and I had to get home. I made it from a hostel outside of Trujillo, Honduras, to Toowoomba, Queensland Australia, in 36 hours.
   Dad's condition was really really bad, but we put him in rehab, and although he didn't want to be there, he made a fantastic recovery. I would say that now he is about 95-98% of his former self.
   This time, when I left, I told him to behave himself. So, a couple of months ago I get a message from him saying he is getting married and I should come home for the wedding. I already had plans for the intended date, so I told him I won't be there... and anyway, I told him too behave himself. Ok, he said, well you better be home for my 60th next year. OK, I agreed.
   So, here's my plan. I am heading to the USA next month to travel with my Mum. From there I will come back to South America, but this time to Buenos Aires (because I really want to try the Tango). And then, I have changed my return flight for the very latest date possible, and I will be home, in Australia, in December.

Monday 19 July 2010

Flirtations in Peru

   Written 06 July, 2010, for later publishing.

   I am beginning to wonder.... if, as a latina girl, you have a childhood of watching your father ogle other women and flirt when given the chance, then, when you grow up and get married and your husband does this, is it all ok? Does it make him all the more the good man, just like your Daddy? Men seem to ogle and flirt here no matter whose company they are in, hassling the blonde chica might be a kind of sport.

   At work (volunteering in the Manatee project) I have had a dilema. On the weekend I realised that one of my work mates, engaged to another workmate, is cheating on her. I told her today... Ouch! But I realised that she was already fighting with him, didn´t fully trust him, and hadn´t worn the ring the last two days, so I asked her about that and she said they 'separated', so I thought, well, better now than later. And I would hate to see a friend marry a scum bag if I knew he was a scum bag and didn´t at least tell her. I like her, I didn´t like him from the start.... I tried to for her sake, but since Sunday I don´t feel the need to try anymore.
   However, I do think that she is one of the most valuable parts of the project, so I also let the head boss know how fantastic she is. I hope she doesn't hate me!

Continued 18 July 2010... (I have left Iquitos now)
   The above mentioned disclosure to my friend and workmate had a big affect on me. I was horrified to learn later that night and the next day that almost everybody else had known about the whole affair. They all felt bad about it, but wanted to say anything. What crappy friends! So, already sick and tired of being hassled by latinos, I now really feel that very few of them can be trusted with a heart, and so I just wanted to get away from them altogether and be someplace without latinos (the men this is... latino for guys, latina for gals). Two weeks later I have left Iquitos, but I am still in Peru. My feelings aren't quite as strong, but I still feel the need to get away.
   A bonus for me did come out of it, one of my other work mates had continually told me that he always wanted a Gringa girlfriend and that (on hearing that I'm quite the dancer) than he'd like to go dancing with me, but just us, no one else... well, he stopped his suggestions as soon as I dobbed on the other guy. Whew! that was a relief.
   In answer to all those who ask would I like to marry a latino... at this point they're looking like a bad option. (Aside from the fact that they mostly seem to be incredibly clucky).

Saturday 17 July 2010

Working to save the Amazonian Manatee

Iquitos and around, Amazon Jungle, Peru

   I spent a month volunteering at a Manatee Rescue project on the outskirts of Iquitos in the Amazon Jungle of Peru. My work there was to guide English speaking tourists and to assist the project in it's endevours to raise some funds to fund the education of the locals in regards to Manatee and general environmental conservation.
   The centre basically does two things. It rescues and rehabilitates orphaned manatees for eventual release back into the wild. And secondly, it is educating the local communities about the need to protect these animals and to look after the environment in general. Because really, there isn't much point rescuing them if they remain a food source. So the second part is extremely important.
   The centre has been operating just over 2 years, it currently has 12 Manatees and is expecting to release the oldest of these late this year.
   The Manatee problem is that the local communities, if given the chance, will often kill an adult Manatee for food. It isn't considered good food, but, with adults reaching almost 3 metres and 450kgs, it is BIG food. That removes a valuable animal from the ecosystem, and often leaves a baby Manatee unprotected and without a source of milk. So, the locals take the calf with the idea of attracting tourists with it or selling it as a pet. Most of these calvesdie within months of being taken into captivity. They need milk for the first 2 years of their lives and cow's milk is too high in lactose. So they get malnutrition, colic, diarrhea, as well as perhaps suffering from a harpoon, machete or net wound from their initial capture. If they do survive, life is likely to be in bad conditions... small cages in the water, or in polluted unclean water.
   The rescue centre (ACOBIA) often finds out about these captured calves through its aducation program. Last year they educated about 40,000 kids. Kids often like to do the right thing, and often when they learn about Manatees they tell the ACOBIA staff that they know where there is a Manatee... and in this way the Rescue staff can approach the community or people and request possession of the Manatee. Capturing and/or killing a manatee is illegal... but the locals mostly don't know that.
   The education is mostly provided to Kids. They are more accessible in the schools and more willing to listen. It's not that they (ACOBIA) don't bother with adults, they'll tell anyone they can and while I was there I got to accompany staff on a trip upriver to give a presentation to fisherman. The presentation was about minimum catch sizes, fish farming as an alternative, and the protection and value of Manatees and Dophins in the Ecosystem.
   The Amazonian Manatees are threatened with extinction. These defenseless creatures have only humans to blame for this. They are rarely taken by any other animals because they are just too big, and they live in the water. The locals are being taught to understand that they have to take care of the environment, or there won't be anything left for their children to eat. Take the Manatees from the ecosytem and you might have too many aquatic plants, these starve the water from Oxygen, and then fish die. Also, adult Manatees contain a lot of mercury, and this isn't good for human consumption.
   I hope that ACOBIA can continue in its success. The Rescue side of things is funded by the Dallas World Aquarium, and with my help they are now poised to make more money from tourists visiting the site and the new website (still being constructed).The money will assist in providing education to yet more people, and in the future the plan is to incorporate a lot more general conservation message into their talks.
   The center can be visited free of charge and I highly recommend it. You might even get to touch a Manatee! It is on the way to Quistococha, Take a Mototaxi or Collective 49 directly, or any collective bus to the terminal and than a collectivo mototaxi headed to Quistococha. Ask to stop at IIAP Carretera. 
   The new website is http://www.acobia-dwazoo.org/ .

Education onsite
Education is given at the centre and externally in the communities. At the centre you might get the chance to help feed them. Second from left is staff member Darwin.


A group of school children visiting the centre.

Trip to educate fisherman in a Riverside town.

On my "Business trip" to Requena, BYO hammock, as usual, as well as a mobile internet connection if you want to work whilst in transit.

Kelly talks to the fisherman about protecting the Manatees. She was congratulated for giving a speach that was clear and easy to comprehend. Remember these are fisherman, doing the best they can to feed their families today, and being taught to think about their childrens families in the future.

Requena has about 40,000 people. I thought it was rather picturesque.

I had to grab this photo! They seemed to be heading home for the day. In Requena.

Trip to educate kids in riverside communities

Breakfast on day 1, whilst waiting for the boat to depart.

Yarapa River Lodge is a tourist lodge with wonderful facilities, it supports the education of 4 local communities that live nearby.

Going to invite a community of school children to come to our 'show'. Andy (I call him Squeegee, they call him something similar I couldn't pronounce), Joy, me, and Christian.

One of the advantages of being a Gringa.... the Gringa tourists invited me on their morning riverboat birdwatching tour. I saw wild Scarlett Macaws and lots lots more.

Here come the kids. The lodge gives them breakfast (it encourages attendance and concentration), and provides a space.

Learning about the environment is clearly fun.

We had a puppet show. This is Pablito, a tourist who likes to see the environment looking healthy and without rubbish.

Then we drew pictures... well I just watched and encouraged. I couldn't begin to think how to draw a monkey.

Actually I drew the river and the tree.

Sunday 11 July 2010

Battered and Bruised in Peru... again

Iquitos, Amazon Jungle, Peru

   What rotten timing! I have been in Iquitos 4 weeks and in that time I have been helping out at the Manatee centre and haven´t been doing a lot, physically speaking. So, tomorrow I am off to the jungle with work mates, and this morning me and a friend were in a ´car accident´. I put car in inverted commas because we were in a Mototaxi or MotoKar (like a Tuk-Tuk).
   It all happened so fast. Ruud (dutch friend) and I were just chatting, suddenly Ruud yells 'whoa! watch out', and then we slam into the back of a SUV. I couldn´t move at first, I had fallen forward, my right leg had slipped down and I had landed with my bum on the floor of the Tuk-tuk, one leg down and the other leg, well, I´m not sure where it went, but it has a lot of swelling and pain now.
   The police arrived amazingly fast for a country that does everything ´manaña´, and they insisted that we go to the hospital, although what we both wanted to do was sit and get to feeling right. I felt like fainting, and when I looked at Ruud there was blood and he was sweating profusely. We were sure we had nothing more than surface wounds and bruising but we agreed to go to the hospital.
   They checked us over, and all was ok, although I was insistant on some ice. The mototaxi driver had a cut over his eye and they were telling him he had to pay the emergency hospital bill for us and himself. He couldn´t afford the $2 for himself, let alone us, and so we paid our bills and his. (Yes that´s right $2! A total of $6 for the 3 of us! I won´t be needing to use my insurance). This poor man now has a police fine, and a bike to fix (although he should have been looking where he was going), and he needs this bike to make money. Although he was at fault, we knew that to pay for him was the only thing to do.
   Then we got the most comfortable ride in Iquitos, in the police car to our intended destination. And I have a 7am start tomorrow to go limping into the jungle with work mates.

Saturday 10 July 2010

Living in Iquitos, Amazon Jungle, Peru.

   The Jungle has lots of new fruit to try and the names are confusing because often they are just regional names, not really Spanish. The locals don´t eat much fruit, they eat mostly rice and meat, and the they mix fruits with water and suger to make a drink. I like to eat fruits though.

The locals call this a Caimito. Online I found it is called a Abiu, or Yellow Star Apple. The botanical name is Pouteria Caimito. It´s sweet, and I really like it but sometimes people don´t like it because it is sticky like glue on your lips.

Half of 3 score and 10

   Well I made it! To 35 that is. And for those who didn´t already know, a score is 20, so 35 is half of 3 score and 10, the allotted span of men.
   I used to always think I would probably die sometime in my early 30's. It seems that it didn't happen, so I guess I'll probably live to a really ripe old age.
   I´m not disappointed, as I am completely content with my life, but the idea (of dying) never really worried me either. Travelling like this you get so many occasions on which you might get killed, but I am amazingly calm about the whole thing. I figure, as I travel on the back of a motorbike with bald tyres, a driver sending text messages and another girl behind me, that there is really very little I can do about it and Que sera sera (it means, what will be will be). And I think that one can be content to die if they know that they have been living the life they are happy with and have been doing good to others as well.
   I was nice that I had been here in Iquitos for almost a month prior to having my birthday, it meant that my work mates got me a birthday cake and my host family did too (so I have been eating a lot of cake). So, it wasn't a patch on last years celebration with all my friends back home, but it certainly was a treat.

Blowing out my candle, with my host mum Delicia proudly looking on.

Wednesday 7 July 2010

Living in Iquitos

   I have heard that the Biologists at the manatee project earn S/.600 per month, that's about $US210, and this is a typical salary. To us, it isn´t a lot.
   Last week coming back on a river boat from a community workshop I attended I bought about 300g of Fresh Cheese for S/.10 (about $US3.50). At first I thought that it wasn´t much of a contribution to the house where I am staying, but then I realised that it really was a reasonable treat to bring home. This cheese is a popular item to buy on this trip, but at this price, considering the salaries, it really must be considered a luxury.

Monday 5 July 2010

Sightseeing in Iquitos

Belem, Part of Iquitos, Amazon Jungle Peru.

Belem is one of the poorest parts of Iquitos. Land costs money, but building your house above the river doesn't cost for land, just the materials.


From a distance, Belem doesn´t appear too bad.

Turtles are endangered, but you´ll find them and other endanger species for sale in the Belem market. People are hungry, the hunter has mouths to feed, so does the vender, and so does the purchaser. In the case of Manatee (remember I am working in a Manatee rescue centre) the meat sells for just S/.1 ($US0.35) per kg. It´s not considered good eating, but, like I said, there are mouths to feed.

Most of Belem has water underneath it for part of the year, some of it for all of the year. Walking in this part is a balancing act, on random scraps of wood slimmed with mud.

The toilets will float when the water is high, then the waste goes directly into the river instead of onto the ground. Yuck!

These people have there toilet in a permanently floating location, it is shared between several houses. These houses are pretty cute.

Floating houses. They tie them to the long sticks to stop them floating away.

Nice, the got a footpath here. But it too will go under water and the houses will rise with the water.

Notes
Boat trip in Belem, about 40 minutes. S/.10- S/.15 ($US3.50-$5)

Thursday 1 July 2010

Flirtations in Peru

   My typical conversation with a MotoTaxi driver goes something like this. Mostly it is in Spanish, sometimes English. My part is in italics.

Where are you from? Australia.
How many children do you have? I don´t have any children.
Oh, you´re single? Yes    (but thinking I should learn to lie)
Why? Because I want to travel and therefore need a man who wants to travel and can travel.
I want to travel, what is your phone number? I don´t have a phone.
Oh, then I will visit you, where are you staying? I´m sorry, but that's not a good question to ask.
But how will I see you again? Hmmm
Anyway, you need to be able to travel too. Hmmm
Are there many other Latinos in Australia? So, I guess you aren´t so interested in travelling. Oh look, we are here, goodbye.