From Chennai we took the train to Vellore. Vellore still isn't a tourist favourite because it hasn't made it into all the guide books and such yet. This city has a controversial new temple, called Sripuram Golden Temple, with 1.5 tonnes of gold built into its' structure. Wow it's pretty.
We arrived late in the day, there were 2 options to get in. Everybody working there kept trying to direct us to the fast track option of paying 250 Rupees (about $5) and skipping the queue. But, as the weather was pleasant and we had nothing better to do we decided to go with the less privileged pilgrims. What an experience! If the weather is good (not too hot) I recommend it.
The queue system can take 3 hours, but while we were there it took a little less than an hour. It consists on walking through a maze of caged corridors to 5 big holding pens. The 5 pens must have held about 200 people each, but weren't cramped. The wait in there might have been about 30 minutes. A canteen sold coffee, biscuits, ice creams.
On release (the Indians mostly push to be first, whereas Louise, myself, and one Indian family (perhaps 'Non India residents') held back) we entered more caged corridors. Until we eventually made it to the beautiful temple complex.
Photography was strictly forbidden on this one so you'll just have to believe me when I tell you that it's stunning, or visit it yourself.
This temple is stunning, and maintained with cleanliness (wow!), and although its free if you go by the queue system it's a money maker in itself. First, when you still can't see a temple, comes the first of the souvenir shops, then donation spots, then canteens for refreshments, then souvenir stalls, and the same again and again. But those things are all optional and if you stop and read all the signs (I did), they tell you about all the good work the guru (?) does.
From there we made a day trip to Tiruvannamalai to see yet another temple, called Arunachaleswar. But honestly, we are a bit "templed out". We just couldn't muster any excitement for this temple, although I'm sure it was beautiful.
Both Temples have us an additional wonderful experience. At the stunning Golden Temple we sat down to admire the view (the lights had just been turned on as the sun was fading) and some Indian tourists stopped to ask us some questions. On leaving us they shook our hands. Suddenly there was a queue of Indians filing past us to shake our hands as they headed to the exit.
The next day at the temple in Tiruvannamalai again we sat to take in the scene when a group of female pilgrims came over and insisted that we join them in a dance (of course I jumped in!). It was a lot of fun. As we left the security guys commented on our scene- they had watched it all on the CCTV! I really don't know if dancing in the temple complex is appropriate behaviour... But the pilgrims started it!
Notes:
23 & 24 January 2013 Vellore. Accommodation at Hotel River View R1440... Applauding service from staff who even tried to overcharge us, and promised service but never delivered it. Room also was dirty.
Local buses used to get to both temples.
Thursday 31 January 2013
Cleanest toilets in India
I forgot to mention that the Sathyam cinema in Chennai had wonderfully nice loos. Louise has been to India 14 times and she reckons they are the cleanest she's ever seen in this country.
Toileting in India is something else. Men seem to urinate where ever they please, so that in many areas the stench is horrific. Women are more often forced to pay a couple of rupees to use a public facility that although much used would be lucky to see a weekly clean.
A particular bugbear for me (and Louise too) is that the loos are always wet. This is because Indians wash instead of using paper, and in the process they seem to get water everywhere.
Visiting a public toilet means:
• take a deep breath, it might be bad outside but you probably want to cover your nose inside.
• enter the toilet facilities.
• if there is a queue, maintain position - an Indian woman will barge right in front of you if you don't be serious about this. She will even push.
• secure your bag on you (there is never a hook, and if there was it'd be attached to a filthy wall),
• enter cubicle, discover it has no latch to hold it closed.
• roll up the trousers legs (otherwise they will be about to touch the floor and wick up water while you squat (it's harder with bags attached but whether it's a western loo or an eastern hole in the floor, you probably don't wanna touch it)
• use foot to hold door closed while you pull trousers down... Careful not to lower them too close to the wet dirty floor
• swap foot holding door to hand to hold door and lower yourself into a squat
• be Careful!
• fumble for loo paper (none is supplied - they use water - and if it was it'd be wet like everything else.)
• switch hands for foot again while you pull up trousers.
• Once you're done and the mosquitoes have bitten your exposed ankles and bum you find that you have to touch something filthy (probably a bucket) to flush the toilet.
•You leave, walk down the street and then realise that your trousers are still rolled up! (They don't wear shorts here and nor should any respectful tourist, so no to rolled up trousers too).
On top of this, the Indian loo attendant will often try to charge me more due to my being a tourist, which wouldn't be so bad if they gave me some toilet paper or something for it, but they don't.
It's hard to keep enough fluids in the system when you know that you might be faced with all this. I haven't been brave enough to check out the loos on the trains - I could smell them on the way past, it was enough.
The photo shows men's toilets at a bus stop on the 5 hour bus ride from Vellore to Bangalore. I can only tell what can be seen (I could hardly check it out), walls to the average Indians chest, no roof. It stunk, but so did the field where the other men were going.
Toileting in India is something else. Men seem to urinate where ever they please, so that in many areas the stench is horrific. Women are more often forced to pay a couple of rupees to use a public facility that although much used would be lucky to see a weekly clean.
A particular bugbear for me (and Louise too) is that the loos are always wet. This is because Indians wash instead of using paper, and in the process they seem to get water everywhere.
Visiting a public toilet means:
• take a deep breath, it might be bad outside but you probably want to cover your nose inside.
• enter the toilet facilities.
• if there is a queue, maintain position - an Indian woman will barge right in front of you if you don't be serious about this. She will even push.
• secure your bag on you (there is never a hook, and if there was it'd be attached to a filthy wall),
• enter cubicle, discover it has no latch to hold it closed.
• roll up the trousers legs (otherwise they will be about to touch the floor and wick up water while you squat (it's harder with bags attached but whether it's a western loo or an eastern hole in the floor, you probably don't wanna touch it)
• use foot to hold door closed while you pull trousers down... Careful not to lower them too close to the wet dirty floor
• swap foot holding door to hand to hold door and lower yourself into a squat
• be Careful!
• fumble for loo paper (none is supplied - they use water - and if it was it'd be wet like everything else.)
• switch hands for foot again while you pull up trousers.
• Once you're done and the mosquitoes have bitten your exposed ankles and bum you find that you have to touch something filthy (probably a bucket) to flush the toilet.
•You leave, walk down the street and then realise that your trousers are still rolled up! (They don't wear shorts here and nor should any respectful tourist, so no to rolled up trousers too).
On top of this, the Indian loo attendant will often try to charge me more due to my being a tourist, which wouldn't be so bad if they gave me some toilet paper or something for it, but they don't.
It's hard to keep enough fluids in the system when you know that you might be faced with all this. I haven't been brave enough to check out the loos on the trains - I could smell them on the way past, it was enough.
The photo shows men's toilets at a bus stop on the 5 hour bus ride from Vellore to Bangalore. I can only tell what can be seen (I could hardly check it out), walls to the average Indians chest, no roof. It stunk, but so did the field where the other men were going.
Wednesday 23 January 2013
Chennai & Madras: my first big Indian City
We were going to skip Chennai (formally Madras), other travellers and the guidebook spoke poorly of it, but I'm glad we included Chennai.
My reason for wanting to include Chennai was a bit week, I wanted to see the movie 'Life of Pi' at the cinema in 3D. The story starts out in Pondicherry (where we visited last week) and also visits Mummar(where I was the week before. And although I had wanted to see it for pure entertainment purposes, I also wanted to see it while the city was fresh in my mind. I thought it was a rather good depiction of the town as it must have been when the movie was set.
Seeing the movie here was a complete hoot. Mobile phones kept ringing, but although it would have been annoying at home I found it simply cultural here. The cinema was busy, although it was 1pm on a Tuesday. The audience got completely into the film- they laughed heartily, slapped their leg in enjoyment and watching 'with them' was a complete pleasure.
Aside from that we also went and found a franchise of the Australian coffee chain 'Gloria Jeans'. I wanted to see if it was like they are in Australia (I never go to one at home but I've passed them often enough) or 'Indianized'. It was very much like the Aussie versions, and although there was no flat white on the menu the young man understood my request and made me one. It was very nice to have this.
Then we took an evening stroll along Marina Beach. It was nice. At one point we found a the concrete painted with a figure of 8 and 3 ladies doing 30 minutes of walking the figure 8 (it occupied a space of about 5m x 4m) for their exercise. Soft exercise I'd say. We joined in, but soon got bored and tried to jazz it up a bit, much to everybodies amusement.
Traveling within Chennai has meant passing many slums. These are interesting to look at: a smelly stench with rubbish everywhere, and huts and more huts and people and more people among the squalor. Catching the train back from the beach the train stopped at a station in a large slum area. We were impressed by the sheer volume of people who go off the train here (it was the commuters coming home from work) and how they were so tidy and seemingly clean comparedt to their surroundings and what they were going to.
We also visited the old British fort museum, but I found it most uninteresting.
Chennai is my first big Indian city and we are glad we came. Our stay of 2 nights has been sufficient and interesting.
My reason for wanting to include Chennai was a bit week, I wanted to see the movie 'Life of Pi' at the cinema in 3D. The story starts out in Pondicherry (where we visited last week) and also visits Mummar(where I was the week before. And although I had wanted to see it for pure entertainment purposes, I also wanted to see it while the city was fresh in my mind. I thought it was a rather good depiction of the town as it must have been when the movie was set.
Seeing the movie here was a complete hoot. Mobile phones kept ringing, but although it would have been annoying at home I found it simply cultural here. The cinema was busy, although it was 1pm on a Tuesday. The audience got completely into the film- they laughed heartily, slapped their leg in enjoyment and watching 'with them' was a complete pleasure.
Aside from that we also went and found a franchise of the Australian coffee chain 'Gloria Jeans'. I wanted to see if it was like they are in Australia (I never go to one at home but I've passed them often enough) or 'Indianized'. It was very much like the Aussie versions, and although there was no flat white on the menu the young man understood my request and made me one. It was very nice to have this.
Then we took an evening stroll along Marina Beach. It was nice. At one point we found a the concrete painted with a figure of 8 and 3 ladies doing 30 minutes of walking the figure 8 (it occupied a space of about 5m x 4m) for their exercise. Soft exercise I'd say. We joined in, but soon got bored and tried to jazz it up a bit, much to everybodies amusement.
Traveling within Chennai has meant passing many slums. These are interesting to look at: a smelly stench with rubbish everywhere, and huts and more huts and people and more people among the squalor. Catching the train back from the beach the train stopped at a station in a large slum area. We were impressed by the sheer volume of people who go off the train here (it was the commuters coming home from work) and how they were so tidy and seemingly clean comparedt to their surroundings and what they were going to.
We also visited the old British fort museum, but I found it most uninteresting.
Chennai is my first big Indian city and we are glad we came. Our stay of 2 nights has been sufficient and interesting.
Sunday 20 January 2013
Mamallapuram, Mahabalipurum, Mal, Backpackerstan
See the names for this place. Most Indian places have 2 names: one for pre the independence from Britain, and one for post. I usually choose the easiest. In the case of this one Lonely Planet India says that people call this 'Mal' (although I haven't heard it yet) and that its a Backpackerstan too (town of backpackers).
We like it here, so we are about to have our 4th night here. The room is costing us just $5.50 per night, and the bed is the softest I've experienced in India so far , and the town quietest.... So I'm sleeping better. There is also less rubbish in the streets (us backpackers know about disposing of rubbish thoughtfully). Also, as a Backpackerstan there are options other than spicy curry for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. (Ironically I'm coping with the constant curry better than Louise).
It's also a good town for sightseeing. There are quiet a few significant sights in and around town and the Indian Dance Festival happens to be on nightly for a month so we go to that each night. We also visited a bird sanctuary and a crocodile park. And today.... I might try an Indian head massage.
Hotel: Vinodharma, twin rm R600.
We like it here, so we are about to have our 4th night here. The room is costing us just $5.50 per night, and the bed is the softest I've experienced in India so far , and the town quietest.... So I'm sleeping better. There is also less rubbish in the streets (us backpackers know about disposing of rubbish thoughtfully). Also, as a Backpackerstan there are options other than spicy curry for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. (Ironically I'm coping with the constant curry better than Louise).
It's also a good town for sightseeing. There are quiet a few significant sights in and around town and the Indian Dance Festival happens to be on nightly for a month so we go to that each night. We also visited a bird sanctuary and a crocodile park. And today.... I might try an Indian head massage.
Hotel: Vinodharma, twin rm R600.
Saturday 19 January 2013
Tamil Nadu photos
First evening in Pondicherry we went to a temple for blessing,
both inside the temple and outside by the temple elephant.
This is the special rice, sugar, milk mix made for the Pongal festival,
it boiling over means good fortune.
Cows are decorated for Pongal festival,
and they go wherever they please, including the beach. (Mamallapuram).
We went to the Vedantangal Bird Santuary, arriving at sunrise.
It sees about 30,000-40,000 birds nest there at this time of year.
The bird sanctuary was good, but when I turned my back
to it I became much more interested in the rice farming.
You can see 3 Adults and a baby (in arms of woman) on this motorbike. There is a boy in front of the men too. Women wearing a sari on bikes tend to sit side saddle.
And finally... the smallest ferris wheel I've ever seen. You could hold a childs hand while you stood on the ground. Behind me is an equally tiny merry-go-round!
Wednesday 16 January 2013
Staying with friends family in Pondy
I have a really good friend back home who is from Pondicherry and he always offered that if I was to go to India I could stay with his Mum and Dad. I wasn't ever 100% certain if his offer was genuine, but I definitely wanted to take up the offer. For me, staying with locals always makes my travelling worthwhile: I think if I only ever got to 'sightsee' I would have give up the travel game ages ago.
Anyway, his offer did come through and here I am. So far Louise and I have been here 3 nights and we will stay one more. I am worried about staying too long but it's festival time and we have been told that today isn't a good day to move on. For me this means forced relaxation... I really have no capacity for sitting around, so I'm struggling a bit.
The Indian hospitality is quite something else (I had hosts in Cochin too). Every meal time is like a forced feeding session where these hosts try to make us eat more than we can or want to. We are both learning to say a firm NO! Then, after eating we are told "rest".
Then, I must laugh, because yesterday I was given a new shirt, size 36XXL (I fit an Indian 'S'). I see 'mom' has ambitions for me!
Yesterday I snuck a piece of fruit mid afternoon while everyone else was resting. Not because I'm not allowed the fruit, but because if they see me having fruit they try to make me have more fruit.
Anyway this part of India used to be French (whereas the British had control elsewhere for longer, the French had it here). But, it's still more Indian than French. If I hadn't read or been told it was French I may not have noticed, although there are more white people here.
The neighbour over the street is Australian so everyday I go and chat for a few hours with him.
The festival goes for 3 days (today is the last). It is called Pongal, the harvest festival, that celebrates the beginning of the Tamil New Year. It has been a particularly wonderful time to stay with locals as we have been able to witness customs associated with this that we would never have seen if we were staying in a hotel.
In sightseeing, we have strolled along the waterfront promenade, visited the botanical gardens (really destroyed by a cyclone some time ago but not repaired), been blessed in 2 temples, and visited Auroville. I also have been blessed by an elephant outside a temple! (He taps you on the head with his trunk.) I was delighted by this.
Auroville is a strange alternative community of foreigners and locals just outside Pondi. I don't really 'get' it, so I won't comment much.
Finally I want to say that Pondi is where the story 'Life of Pi' starts out. I've read the book, but I'm still hoping to see the movie.
The photo shows a neighbour doing the decorations out the front of the house. Each house does this every morning for Pongal and they all seem to be works of art in their own right, each different to the others: big, small, colorful, geometric, or pictures of something.
Anyway, his offer did come through and here I am. So far Louise and I have been here 3 nights and we will stay one more. I am worried about staying too long but it's festival time and we have been told that today isn't a good day to move on. For me this means forced relaxation... I really have no capacity for sitting around, so I'm struggling a bit.
The Indian hospitality is quite something else (I had hosts in Cochin too). Every meal time is like a forced feeding session where these hosts try to make us eat more than we can or want to. We are both learning to say a firm NO! Then, after eating we are told "rest".
Then, I must laugh, because yesterday I was given a new shirt, size 36XXL (I fit an Indian 'S'). I see 'mom' has ambitions for me!
Yesterday I snuck a piece of fruit mid afternoon while everyone else was resting. Not because I'm not allowed the fruit, but because if they see me having fruit they try to make me have more fruit.
Anyway this part of India used to be French (whereas the British had control elsewhere for longer, the French had it here). But, it's still more Indian than French. If I hadn't read or been told it was French I may not have noticed, although there are more white people here.
The neighbour over the street is Australian so everyday I go and chat for a few hours with him.
The festival goes for 3 days (today is the last). It is called Pongal, the harvest festival, that celebrates the beginning of the Tamil New Year. It has been a particularly wonderful time to stay with locals as we have been able to witness customs associated with this that we would never have seen if we were staying in a hotel.
In sightseeing, we have strolled along the waterfront promenade, visited the botanical gardens (really destroyed by a cyclone some time ago but not repaired), been blessed in 2 temples, and visited Auroville. I also have been blessed by an elephant outside a temple! (He taps you on the head with his trunk.) I was delighted by this.
Auroville is a strange alternative community of foreigners and locals just outside Pondi. I don't really 'get' it, so I won't comment much.
Finally I want to say that Pondi is where the story 'Life of Pi' starts out. I've read the book, but I'm still hoping to see the movie.
The photo shows a neighbour doing the decorations out the front of the house. Each house does this every morning for Pongal and they all seem to be works of art in their own right, each different to the others: big, small, colorful, geometric, or pictures of something.
Tuesday 15 January 2013
Destroy bottle
When I first saw the message on the side of my bottle I was confused.
"Please destroy bottle after use."
What did they mean? And what happened to recycling?
Well, recycling of bottles in the way westerners are used to isn't as practiced here. But, people recycling by way of refilling (with unsafe water from the tap), reworking the seals, and reselling is done in some parts. So, destroying your bottle helps prevent this from happening.
And check the bottle before you buy so you don't buy a refilled bottle.
"Please destroy bottle after use."
What did they mean? And what happened to recycling?
Well, recycling of bottles in the way westerners are used to isn't as practiced here. But, people recycling by way of refilling (with unsafe water from the tap), reworking the seals, and reselling is done in some parts. So, destroying your bottle helps prevent this from happening.
And check the bottle before you buy so you don't buy a refilled bottle.
Monday 14 January 2013
We liked Trichy!
On arrival in Trichy we quickly found suitable accommodation: much nicer than Madurai, bigger, cleaner, screened, and as we were sharing the price per person was actually even less than the previous. And, we liked it enough and the town and its people that we stayed 3 nights.
(Hotel Ashby, twin room, R660/ night)
(9 Jan)
We visited Rock Fort, it gave us tremendous 360 views of Trichy. We also enjoyed seeing the main shopping area, with all the women sari shopping.
(10 Jan)
We visited Sri Rangan' Temple (I am abbreviating) in Trichy. A guide (R280 total) showed us around. It's a lovely temple complex but nothing there really delighted me.
In the afternoon Louise and I went shopping for new shirts. I came to India with the intention of discarding some items and getting new. Even by buying an expensive brand it was cheap. ($13).
(11 Jan)
As we liked Trichy we booked the extra night and did a day trip to Tanjore. I have already written about the pilgrims wanting to take our photos at the temple.
We travelled there and back by general train. Now that I've done it I hope to never do it again. It was tight with people and on the return journey we were close to the really stinky toilets. I had to cover my face with cloth to avoid the smell.
From now on I choose the allocated seat, AC classes.
Aside from the temple Tanjore also has a palace which has one of the worlds only medieval libraries. The was a small but extremely interesting collection on display. Old papers and old texts. I really appreciated it. There was also museum of bronze cholas, which Louise likes but I found not so interesting.
(12 Jan)
Finally we left Trichy and in Chidambaram we have even better accommodation. And, all the honking of car horns is distant.
(Hotel Saradharam, twin R1100, incl breakfast).
We came here for the Nataraja Temple, dedicated to Shiva: lord of the dance. It's an impressive temple. To me it felt more holy than the others, and we got to see a ceremony. No photos were allowed, and I'm pleased as the taking if photos (by me and others) detracts from these places.
The ceremony was interesting but I don't believe I could possibly describe it - I just don't understand enough of Hinduism and all its many parts.
And this temple has turned me. Whereas this morning I was wondering why I wanted to travel in this country (okay the filth, rubbish, noise, all get to me a bit), this afternoon I found just a little bit of what others are coming here for.
(Hotel Ashby, twin room, R660/ night)
(9 Jan)
We visited Rock Fort, it gave us tremendous 360 views of Trichy. We also enjoyed seeing the main shopping area, with all the women sari shopping.
(10 Jan)
We visited Sri Rangan' Temple (I am abbreviating) in Trichy. A guide (R280 total) showed us around. It's a lovely temple complex but nothing there really delighted me.
In the afternoon Louise and I went shopping for new shirts. I came to India with the intention of discarding some items and getting new. Even by buying an expensive brand it was cheap. ($13).
(11 Jan)
As we liked Trichy we booked the extra night and did a day trip to Tanjore. I have already written about the pilgrims wanting to take our photos at the temple.
We travelled there and back by general train. Now that I've done it I hope to never do it again. It was tight with people and on the return journey we were close to the really stinky toilets. I had to cover my face with cloth to avoid the smell.
From now on I choose the allocated seat, AC classes.
Aside from the temple Tanjore also has a palace which has one of the worlds only medieval libraries. The was a small but extremely interesting collection on display. Old papers and old texts. I really appreciated it. There was also museum of bronze cholas, which Louise likes but I found not so interesting.
(12 Jan)
Finally we left Trichy and in Chidambaram we have even better accommodation. And, all the honking of car horns is distant.
(Hotel Saradharam, twin R1100, incl breakfast).
We came here for the Nataraja Temple, dedicated to Shiva: lord of the dance. It's an impressive temple. To me it felt more holy than the others, and we got to see a ceremony. No photos were allowed, and I'm pleased as the taking if photos (by me and others) detracts from these places.
The ceremony was interesting but I don't believe I could possibly describe it - I just don't understand enough of Hinduism and all its many parts.
And this temple has turned me. Whereas this morning I was wondering why I wanted to travel in this country (okay the filth, rubbish, noise, all get to me a bit), this afternoon I found just a little bit of what others are coming here for.
Saturday 12 January 2013
Feeding time at the zoo
Louise called it "feeding time at the zoo". We had sat down in a local restaurant/diner and were waiting for our meals to be delivered and the staff were gathering to watch us. They were fascinated by everything we did. "Imagine," I said to Louise, "it could be worse, this place is listed in your guide book so it must get the occasional tourist." But, that's how it sometimes is.
Walking down the street many people ask to shake my hand (I go with it), and yesterday I was alarmed to have a woman at a temple entrance stop me, touch my forehead and tell me I should have a bindi spot and a sari. "Quite right" said Louise in her dry humour. Most alarming for me though was her cool touch that I felt for hours afterwards.
But today took the cake.
We went to the Brihadishwara Temple in Tanjore in the middle of the day. Walking barefoot on the hot stones (shoes must be removed at left outside of Hindu temples) was getting to much for us so we decided to sit in the cool shade of the housing of the 25 tonne stone Nandi (the bull) and take in the scene. But a crowd (mostly male) gathered to take photos of us. Then they decided to each have photos taken with us. Excitedly, one by one they would take turns sitting with us for their photo. There must have been 50 photos taken, eventually we said enough... And turned to see that more (men) were coming!
We escaped but then decided it was our turn and we got some lovely snaps of us with the lady pilgrims (see other blog entry where I uploaded this photo). Even later in the temple more approached us!
And then tonight we walked into a restaurant and a staff member instantly asked if he could have my photo.
So yep, sometimes I'm the attraction.
By the way, I really liked the Brihadishwara temple.
(Photo of all the people taking our photo).
Walking down the street many people ask to shake my hand (I go with it), and yesterday I was alarmed to have a woman at a temple entrance stop me, touch my forehead and tell me I should have a bindi spot and a sari. "Quite right" said Louise in her dry humour. Most alarming for me though was her cool touch that I felt for hours afterwards.
But today took the cake.
We went to the Brihadishwara Temple in Tanjore in the middle of the day. Walking barefoot on the hot stones (shoes must be removed at left outside of Hindu temples) was getting to much for us so we decided to sit in the cool shade of the housing of the 25 tonne stone Nandi (the bull) and take in the scene. But a crowd (mostly male) gathered to take photos of us. Then they decided to each have photos taken with us. Excitedly, one by one they would take turns sitting with us for their photo. There must have been 50 photos taken, eventually we said enough... And turned to see that more (men) were coming!
We escaped but then decided it was our turn and we got some lovely snaps of us with the lady pilgrims (see other blog entry where I uploaded this photo). Even later in the temple more approached us!
And then tonight we walked into a restaurant and a staff member instantly asked if he could have my photo.
So yep, sometimes I'm the attraction.
By the way, I really liked the Brihadishwara temple.
(Photo of all the people taking our photo).
First days in Tamil Nadu: Pictures
Madurai (city) is home to Hindu Temple Sri Meenaksh. It's a massive complex and very impressive. Most entertaining in that it has 4 gates (North, South, East West) and we entered via the West gate. Upon entering Hindu Temples you are required to leave your shoes. Unbeknow to us we exited on the East Gate, and tried to get our shoes back and were told to keep going around, and the South Gate we were also told to keep going. When we finally got our shoes back, at the West gate we decided to walk around to the South gate just to see it too.
Some temple detail.
In the city of Trichy (it has a longer name I won't bother with) there is a Rock Fort with impressive views. Check out the size of the Caucery River, must be impressive when it fills.
Being a sacred cow in India.... I think I'd rather be not so sacred on the nice farm.
The Rock Fort also encompasses more Hindu shrines. Check the flowers on the feet.
In Sri Ranganathaswamy Temple, Trichy.
World Heritage listed Brihadishwara Temple in Tanjore is really lovely and quite different.
Still in Brihadishwara Temple: After queues of people lines up to have their photo taken with Louise and I, I decided it was my turn... the pilgrims were very willing to have their group photo with me. I kind of stand out... don't you think? I'll write a blog about it later.
Pictures from Kerala
Because I can write blogs with my iphone I haven't been uploading a lot of photo's. I will do these from time to time in internet cafes:-
Kerala Backwaters, the houseboats come in a range of styles and sizes. Ours was 2 stories, 2 bedrooms and a large lounging area.
Some of the backwaters passages were small, others quite large, at one stage we entered a lake.
We went to the beach to watch the sunset. The beach dress style is different.
Munnar tea plantations and the women cutting the tea. A foreman watched them from not far away. The women were all older... I guess in the future there won't be anybody left to cut my tea, because everyone went to University and doesn't want to cut tea anymore.
Munnar hills... a beautiful view.
Wednesday 9 January 2013
Let the adventure begin!
I arrived in the middle of Friday night. Strangely, although my flight was on time as scheduled it had to wait for landing- because the airport was being cleaned. I figured this was my first introduction to how India does things.
(5 Jan)
For my first days I had arranged to stay with an Indian family friend from back home who was home visiting family for Christmas. In those first days (4 nights) I was treated like royalty. I was shown all the major sights of Cochin - Fort Cochin, the Chinese fishing nets, and the Kathalali dance performance; and spent a day in a houseboat on the Kerala Backwaters.
(6 Jan)
The Backwaters are listed in most the major travel guide companies as amongst the top to do things of the world. It's a series of waterways: lakes and canals, a 900 km network. Typically people travel the backwaters in a houseboat and with a group of 17 from my friends family we did a day trip on a 2 bedroom houseboat (with lots of lounging room up top the bedrooms were largely ignored). I loved it and I thought it was enough without staying overnight.
(7Jan)
The next day we departed from his family and, with a driver, headed to the tea plantations of Munnar. Whereas Cochin had a stifling heat and humidity, Munnar was wonderfully cool. We stayed in a wonderful resort outside of town, away from the constant blasting of horns, and with wonderful accommodations and foods. Unfortunately the tea museum was closed on Monday so I'm none the wiser about tea. We spent the afternoon driving to Top Station for the big views but it was shrouded in mist.
www.camelotmunnar.com
(8 Jan)
The next morning, despite my offers to take a bus, they drive me another 5 hours to meet my travel companion, Louise, in Madurai. The trip involved 17 hairpin bends in 30 minutes.
Louise had gotten tired of looking for accommodation and settled for something particularly horrible and my Indian host was horrified to see where he was leaving me.
As the guide book says, it's dank. It's also grimey and very unclean. But I have used my own sheet, pillow slip, mosquito net., eye mask, and ear plugs. I survived. Today we'll move on and in Trichy we'll find better (I promise!). But hey, this private room was $7 ... I might stretch the budget for something better.
Madurai has a most impressive Hindu temple which we visited already. Most funny is that the place has 4 gates for entrance and we managed to exit at a different gate to where we went in, but didn't realize. Before entering we had to remove our shoes and exchange them for a ticket... And we went to 3 different gates to request our shoes before we finally found the correct entrance way.
(9 Jan)
Today we move onto Trichy. Like most
places in India it has another proper name but I'm an Aussie, so I'll go with to easiest. Today will be my first Indian train!
Photos will be posted later. (I'm writing from a blogger application on my iPhone).
(5 Jan)
For my first days I had arranged to stay with an Indian family friend from back home who was home visiting family for Christmas. In those first days (4 nights) I was treated like royalty. I was shown all the major sights of Cochin - Fort Cochin, the Chinese fishing nets, and the Kathalali dance performance; and spent a day in a houseboat on the Kerala Backwaters.
(6 Jan)
The Backwaters are listed in most the major travel guide companies as amongst the top to do things of the world. It's a series of waterways: lakes and canals, a 900 km network. Typically people travel the backwaters in a houseboat and with a group of 17 from my friends family we did a day trip on a 2 bedroom houseboat (with lots of lounging room up top the bedrooms were largely ignored). I loved it and I thought it was enough without staying overnight.
(7Jan)
The next day we departed from his family and, with a driver, headed to the tea plantations of Munnar. Whereas Cochin had a stifling heat and humidity, Munnar was wonderfully cool. We stayed in a wonderful resort outside of town, away from the constant blasting of horns, and with wonderful accommodations and foods. Unfortunately the tea museum was closed on Monday so I'm none the wiser about tea. We spent the afternoon driving to Top Station for the big views but it was shrouded in mist.
www.camelotmunnar.com
(8 Jan)
The next morning, despite my offers to take a bus, they drive me another 5 hours to meet my travel companion, Louise, in Madurai. The trip involved 17 hairpin bends in 30 minutes.
Louise had gotten tired of looking for accommodation and settled for something particularly horrible and my Indian host was horrified to see where he was leaving me.
As the guide book says, it's dank. It's also grimey and very unclean. But I have used my own sheet, pillow slip, mosquito net., eye mask, and ear plugs. I survived. Today we'll move on and in Trichy we'll find better (I promise!). But hey, this private room was $7 ... I might stretch the budget for something better.
Madurai has a most impressive Hindu temple which we visited already. Most funny is that the place has 4 gates for entrance and we managed to exit at a different gate to where we went in, but didn't realize. Before entering we had to remove our shoes and exchange them for a ticket... And we went to 3 different gates to request our shoes before we finally found the correct entrance way.
(9 Jan)
Today we move onto Trichy. Like most
places in India it has another proper name but I'm an Aussie, so I'll go with to easiest. Today will be my first Indian train!
Photos will be posted later. (I'm writing from a blogger application on my iPhone).
Sunday 6 January 2013
First day in India
Arriving in the middle of the night India seemed remarkably calm. Even by day it seems to be chaotically busy, and yet be blanketed in a sense of calm.
Traffic goes everywhere, in all directions at the same time and at varying speeds, and yet it flows and each element moves around the others with a sense of calm, a bit like water flowing through a pebbly stream.
The women all seem to dress elegantly, the men do not.
Everybody has been most pleasant to me.
We started the day by going to get me a sim card for my phone. There was a lot of paperwork for a pre-paid card, and it still doesn't work but we are getting there.... we think. A friend at home had advised that BSNL would be best with moving from state to state, so that is what I have.
Then we went to Fort Cochin, checked out a modern art installation (I just don't get Modern art), saw the Chinese fishing nets (wow they are interesting), and then went to a Kathakali performance (despite being touristy, it's really worth going to).
I am staying with the a friend who lives in Australia and his family, so then we had a dinner at home with all my friends young cousins visiting to meet me. Most were shy and didn't talk to me. I was surprised to learn that all the paternal cousins had names starting with the letter F.
So this has been a most pleasant start to my trip,
Traffic goes everywhere, in all directions at the same time and at varying speeds, and yet it flows and each element moves around the others with a sense of calm, a bit like water flowing through a pebbly stream.
The women all seem to dress elegantly, the men do not.
Everybody has been most pleasant to me.
We started the day by going to get me a sim card for my phone. There was a lot of paperwork for a pre-paid card, and it still doesn't work but we are getting there.... we think. A friend at home had advised that BSNL would be best with moving from state to state, so that is what I have.
Then we went to Fort Cochin, checked out a modern art installation (I just don't get Modern art), saw the Chinese fishing nets (wow they are interesting), and then went to a Kathakali performance (despite being touristy, it's really worth going to).
I am staying with the a friend who lives in Australia and his family, so then we had a dinner at home with all my friends young cousins visiting to meet me. Most were shy and didn't talk to me. I was surprised to learn that all the paternal cousins had names starting with the letter F.
Modern Art at the Kochi-Muziris Biennae 2012. I liked this exhibit better than most.
Chinese Fishing nets worked on a cantilevered system.
The 15 rocks as weights for the Cantilever.
Kathakali make-up application.
Kathakali includes extreme eye movement and facial expressions.
Friday 4 January 2013
I thought it was over
It's interesting, the thoughts that go through your head in those brief moments when you think you are about to plummet to death. The thoughts afterwards are interesting too.
I am writing this from the budget Kuala Lumper airport having just arrived here.
About halfway through the 8 hour flight we hit an unexpected large pocket of turbulence, and the plane dropped massively, corrected a bit and dropped again, and again.
There were screams, gasps, and whimpers (I whimpered). Those not wearing seatbelts (I was, I do when seated) were flung into the air. The cabin crew hit the floor beside their trolleys and after a moment started yelling 'seatbelts!, Seatbelts!, SEATBELTS!'. The woman beside me had been an air hostess for a couple of large airlines and said she had never experienced anything even close to it and she too had thought we were going to die. And a hostess working the other side of the plane looked traumatized for the remainder of the flight. It was indeed scary.
I had some serious and some funny thoughts.
Last week I was at the Woodford Folk Festival and on two occasions I heard the famous and hilarious poem "Turbulence" by Murray Hartin (google it, you tube it, look for it, if you don't know it). Also, when we hit the turbulence I had been watching a rodeo movie (called Cowgirls n Angels) so I was in a rodeo mindset. So, with the words of "Turbulence" fresh in my mind, I looked for a swag to cling to (but there was none) and said "Buck you bastard buck!". Then I recalled that the brace position might be more appropriate so I tightened my seatbelt some more and got into it.
More seriously, I hoped that no one would be disappointed that I'd taken the flight because I was living the life I wanted to and, if I was to die, it was better than not trying to live the life I wanted. I hoped that those who I love knew that I did, and I know that I have never told them often enough.
When I realized I was probably going to survive I vowed to fix my will, and I started thinking I maybe should be spending more money (I'm known for my ability to save, not spend).
And so with those thoughts... I'm going to go and have the best meal I can find at the budget airport terminal... Just in case it's my last.
Cheers, and love to all my family and friends,
Ali.
I am writing this from the budget Kuala Lumper airport having just arrived here.
About halfway through the 8 hour flight we hit an unexpected large pocket of turbulence, and the plane dropped massively, corrected a bit and dropped again, and again.
There were screams, gasps, and whimpers (I whimpered). Those not wearing seatbelts (I was, I do when seated) were flung into the air. The cabin crew hit the floor beside their trolleys and after a moment started yelling 'seatbelts!, Seatbelts!, SEATBELTS!'. The woman beside me had been an air hostess for a couple of large airlines and said she had never experienced anything even close to it and she too had thought we were going to die. And a hostess working the other side of the plane looked traumatized for the remainder of the flight. It was indeed scary.
I had some serious and some funny thoughts.
Last week I was at the Woodford Folk Festival and on two occasions I heard the famous and hilarious poem "Turbulence" by Murray Hartin (google it, you tube it, look for it, if you don't know it). Also, when we hit the turbulence I had been watching a rodeo movie (called Cowgirls n Angels) so I was in a rodeo mindset. So, with the words of "Turbulence" fresh in my mind, I looked for a swag to cling to (but there was none) and said "Buck you bastard buck!". Then I recalled that the brace position might be more appropriate so I tightened my seatbelt some more and got into it.
More seriously, I hoped that no one would be disappointed that I'd taken the flight because I was living the life I wanted to and, if I was to die, it was better than not trying to live the life I wanted. I hoped that those who I love knew that I did, and I know that I have never told them often enough.
When I realized I was probably going to survive I vowed to fix my will, and I started thinking I maybe should be spending more money (I'm known for my ability to save, not spend).
And so with those thoughts... I'm going to go and have the best meal I can find at the budget airport terminal... Just in case it's my last.
Cheers, and love to all my family and friends,
Ali.
Thursday 3 January 2013
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