Camino: Life of a pilgrim

Since I'm not doing much, let me tell you what it's like to be a pilgrim.

Firstly, people get up early. I don't quite get it. I'm a natural early riser and usually I'm amongst the first up, or THE first up, when I'm travelling. It's great, it means that I can use the toilet and shower without having to queue. (I tend to stay in hostels with shared facilities).

On the camino though there are lots of people getting up and starting hiking in the dark. I understand that on the super busy Camino Frances people do this to beat the crowd to the next place and get the best bed. It's a snowballing problem with people getting up earlier and earlier to beat the others.

But, this camino isn't so busy, and if a bottom bunk is needed (like I've needed it recently for my knee) you can often call ahead and request one from a private albergue. The days are long, in terms of daylight hours, so really there isn't a need to rush. Some say they are beating the heat,, what heat? I haven't found it hot yet.

Then you hike. You carry all your things and the water and snacks needed. Some days are more than 30kms without passing a town. If you pass through a town you can, of course, stop to buy food and drink.

Pilgrims mostly stay at Albergues. They are special Pilgrims hostels. Most towns on route have a municipal albergue, run by the town council. Some have a private hostels/albergues, and some have both. Some people are carrying tents and they camp.

Albuergues are all different. The municipal ones are usually more basic. The beds are usually bunk beds, and so far I think I've had up to 24 beds in a room. My best had 2 beds in the room and I had it to myself. Both of these were municipal.

Some have no bedding (although, if, like me, you don't have a sleeping bag, there has so far always been a blanket available). I travel with a silk sleep sheet, and in only one place I have they provided sheets so I'm pleased I have it.

To stay at the municipal albergue you must have a pilgrims credential. Some of the privates also demand a credential, others just have a different price for people without a credential.

A credential is kind of like a 'Pilgrims Passport'. It can be obtained from 'Friends of the Camino' associations around the world, purchased from a few private businesses associated with the pilgrimage, or, if you are catholic and making a religious pilgrimage, you can get one from your Catholic Church. I bought mine for €2 from Triana Backpackers (where I started from) in Seville.

On arrival at the Albergue, municiple or private, the 'Hospitelero' (host), writes your details in a book and stamps your credential. He or she then takes payment. Mostly it's €10, but it can be as simple as no fee but a request for a donation.

Then you pick the best bed available in the dorm. I haven't yet had to go on top, but I teamed with fast walkers... And now I have a bad knee I'm beating the crowds by taking the bus.

Then everybody does 2 things: shower and laundry. There might be just 2 bathrooms (with toilet and shower in the same room) for 28 pilgrims. I like to remind myself that the slum in Mumbai had something like 1 toilet for 350 families, and this is better and a choice. People are mostly very efficient and the wait is never long. Beauty queens and kings don't seem to go on pilgrimages or stay in albergues.

The Spanish close most shops between 2 and 5, and that's when lunch is served in the restaurants, dinner is after 7.30. Usually there is some place offering a pilgrims menu for €7-9. It'll be a first plate (soup, salad, pasta, etc), a second plate (meat and potato chips), bread, dessert, and a drink (beer, wine, water, or soft drink). This could be had for lunch or dinner, but I usually have a late lunch and then eat something light for dinner.

In the late afternoon most will take a wonder in the town streets or sit around talking. Or, as is the modern day, they'll be on their smart phone using the Internet.

Then, while the rest of Spain never sleeps (at 9pm kids are playing in the plaza and men are walking dogs) pilgrims go to bed between 10 and 11.

Earplugs are necessary. With so many people in a room there'll be snorers... And there was the time when I apparently kept people awake with my teeth chatting due to the cold!

Also worth a mention is that old European men have no qualms about walking around the dormitory in their underwear, no matter what shape they are in. They'll even have conversations with you whilst so underdressed.

And, if you're leaving early its best to have your clothes and bag ready and at the door so as not to disturb the couple of people who aren't getting up so early.