When I first arrived in SA I was alarmed at the number of Asian produced goods available... I mean labour is cheap here, so why not produce here? But now I know why... they don´t have the work ethic of the Asians. Everyplace latino run place has at least 3 times as many staff as we would think neccessary. These places also seem to lack inspiration, perhaps because they isn´t much opportunity and without opportunity it´s hard to have a dream.
In contrast, when I visited Cuba, years ago, it seemed a happy place, despite really not liking the system they are living under.... but with an ageing president and the USA just 100 miles away, perhaps it was opportunity for change that kept them happier.
Thursday 25 March 2010
Wednesday 24 March 2010
Peruvian Pisco and Pelicans
Pisco, Peru
17-18 March 2010
I caught an overnight bus from Arequipa, I wanted to go to Pisco, but apparently I couldn´t. So I went to the next town, wandered around, decided I didn´t like it, and caught a collectivo to Pisco.
In Pisco I booked a morning tour to Islas Ballestas, the poor mans Gallapagos.
In the evening prior to the tour I went to Pisco´s most recommended bar for a Pisco Sour... much better here than in Chile! And the barman was nice enough to tell me where I should go for dinner, then, since it was quiet, took me to dinner. Imagine, a 22 year old taking me out for dinner! And he insisted on paying (at least it was cheap, even for here... a fraction of the price of the Pisco Sour).
Notes:
Accomodation in Pisco, Gino´s $7, private room, private bath.
Tour to Islas Ballestas, 3 hours (but more like 4 hours) $14
Pisco Sour $5
Dinner, skewered Beef hearts, $2.
17-18 March 2010
I caught an overnight bus from Arequipa, I wanted to go to Pisco, but apparently I couldn´t. So I went to the next town, wandered around, decided I didn´t like it, and caught a collectivo to Pisco.
In Pisco I booked a morning tour to Islas Ballestas, the poor mans Gallapagos.
In the evening prior to the tour I went to Pisco´s most recommended bar for a Pisco Sour... much better here than in Chile! And the barman was nice enough to tell me where I should go for dinner, then, since it was quiet, took me to dinner. Imagine, a 22 year old taking me out for dinner! And he insisted on paying (at least it was cheap, even for here... a fraction of the price of the Pisco Sour).
Peruvian Pelicans
The Candelaria... they don´t know why, but there it is on a dune faces the pacific. And it´s really big.
The islands from a distance. They are white with Guano, bird doo, a major export product for fertiliser.
Sea Lions and their pups. Wow!
Outside of town the houses were made of straw mats!
Accomodation in Pisco, Gino´s $7, private room, private bath.
Tour to Islas Ballestas, 3 hours (but more like 4 hours) $14
Pisco Sour $5
Dinner, skewered Beef hearts, $2.
Tuesday 23 March 2010
Colca Canyon Trek - Was I feeling too fit?
13-14 March 2010
Colca Canyon, Arequipa, Peru
Go to Arequipa, and the must do thing is a to go and take a look at the Colca Canyon... the 2nd biggest Canyon in the world (another, not so far away is the biggest, and I am told that the Grand Canyon is the 3rd). But some crazy idea got into my head that looking would not big enough. No, I would take a trek. The options were a 2 day or 3 day trek. Both cover the same ground, 3 days is easier because you take more time.... I booked the 2 day trek.
Remember it is only the 2nd biggest canyon in the world, and just a few days earlier my knees and ankles had been sore (I broke my ankle at 18 and usually it is good, but it doen not like changing altitude). By the time we got half way down, my knees were not happy.
But I survived, I rode a mule back up! The mule ride was a lot of fun. And the scenery was spectacular. But if I knew then what I know now.... I would do the 1 day sightseeing trip.
Colca Canyon, Arequipa, Peru
Go to Arequipa, and the must do thing is a to go and take a look at the Colca Canyon... the 2nd biggest Canyon in the world (another, not so far away is the biggest, and I am told that the Grand Canyon is the 3rd). But some crazy idea got into my head that looking would not big enough. No, I would take a trek. The options were a 2 day or 3 day trek. Both cover the same ground, 3 days is easier because you take more time.... I booked the 2 day trek.
Remember it is only the 2nd biggest canyon in the world, and just a few days earlier my knees and ankles had been sore (I broke my ankle at 18 and usually it is good, but it doen not like changing altitude). By the time we got half way down, my knees were not happy.
But I survived, I rode a mule back up! The mule ride was a lot of fun. And the scenery was spectacular. But if I knew then what I know now.... I would do the 1 day sightseeing trip.
Happy people, at the start of the trek. My group: John (England), Sebastian (France), me, Anna & Mas (Denmark), Christian and Pauline (Australia/Portugal).
Colca Canyon
Having now ridden a mule up the Canyon I now think I understand the difference between stubborn as a mule and stubborn as a ass (donkey). This is a donkey, the woman was having trouble getting it to continue the steep climb. My mule, on the other hand, kept going and going, like it was on energiser batteries, it hardly stopped. Occassionally it took a brief breather, then put its head down and, stubbornly, kept going.
Gotta love the gate, especially the shoe soles for hinges. Dad, please show Peter.
See the zigzagged line going up, that is the trek out. The moment I saw it I counted my cash to see if I could take a mule up.
My mule liked to be first.... these people did not have quite such dedicated mules. Yep, it was steep. My mule did not stop to allow photos.
Bad photo of me..... sun in eyes. This is after the trek. Including Roy, our smooth Guide.
Notes:
2 day trek, accomodation and meals $44
From my Dad.... a poem by Odgen Nash.
The one-L lama,
He's a priest.
The two-L llama,
He's a beast.
And I would bet
A silk pajama
There isn't any
Three-L lllama.
He's a priest.
The two-L llama,
He's a beast.
And I would bet
A silk pajama
There isn't any
Three-L lllama.
Sunday 21 March 2010
Stalker in Arequipa, Peru
12-16 March, 2010
Areqipa, Peru.
Arequipa is a beautiful city. The main plaza´s beauty struck me the moment I saw it, and on clear days (it wasn´t when I arrived) you can also see that it has a back drop of beautiful mountains. Also, having been in the highlands, I was enjoying having oxygen again!
On arrival, I immediately set about finding a 2 day hike tour in Colca Canyon. When I walked down the street, a Peruvian man stopped me to talk. "What was I looking for?" He asked... "Nothing", I said, "just passing time". "Oh". Then he came too. I dismissed him by saying I wanted to find a tour. He left me be! Then I booked the tour, and stepped out of the tour office to find him again. "Let´s go have a drink", he offered. "No, actually I have 1 hour to visit the monastry", I replied. "Ok" he said, and followed me to the monastery. I paid and went in, he didn´t. Released again! After the monastery I dawdled in and out of shops in the direction of the plaza, one block and he was there again! I agreed to his company over dinner, nothing more, I was going on a trekking tour at 3am in the morning!.
I returned from the trek 2days later, went out with the tour group for drinks and who should turn up but the same guy, surely my stalker! But I stuck with the group. (Another story).
He (Ricardo) said he was from Lima, but I actually think I won´t run into him there.... I think he´s a tourist hassler. For what reason I mightn´t need to know.
The Monastery in Arequipa is a village inside a city, it had everything. The nuns lived here in a vow of seclusion, now there aren´t so many and they occupy just a small section in the back corner. This is the laundry.
The monastery is beautiful and interesting, but I wouldn´t stay there, even to avoid my stalker!
Fried Guinea pig.... tastes good! and a glass of Chicha Morena, made from corn.
I think that´s Misti volcano overlooking Arequipa.
The cathedral of Arequipa. Stunning, and beside a stunning plaza.
Can´t stomach guinea pig? How about some sheep´s head?
Notes
Accommodation in Arequipa:Los Andes B & B $8 private room, shared bath, breakfast included.
Monastery entry $10.
Saturday 20 March 2010
Floating Islands of Lake Titicaca, Peru.
11 March, 2010
Tour to Uros Floating Islands Lago Titicaca.
Tour to Uros Floating Islands Lago Titicaca.
This is the reeds from which the Uros people make their everything... the islands, the houses, the boats.
The number of floating islands astounded me.... they make new ones all the time (well, an island of straw doesn´t last forever), and there are about 50 of them.
They have fish farms, for trout, in the middle of most islands.
Cute hat! She´s rowing the boat.
Notes
3 hours tour to Uros (took 4 hours).$7 ****
Sillustani funeral tombs, Puno, Peru, and the more interesting modern day farm life.
10 March 2010,
First afternoon in Peru, at Puno.
I arrived in Puno, at about midday, found a hotel, had lunch, went on a tour to Sillustani.The tour had an unexpected and delightful extra....with visited a modern day rural compound of houses and storage buidlings.
Typical cluster / compound of homes in a rural area near Puno, Peru. Llamas and Alpacas out front.
Sillustani Funeral Tower, built by pre-Inca civilisations to put mummified bodies in. The bodies had gold with them, so the Spaniards ransacked the lot. The inside of the tombs were shaped like a womens´s uterus, something to do with rebirth perhaps. Don´t know how they lifted the bigblocks into place. Also the blocks are held like a jigsaw... they have shaped them to the curve and put a hole in one side and thing to go in the next bricks hole on the other side. (English has obviously escaped me!)
The rural folk put these cute ceramics on top of the buildings and gates to bring luck.
When we visited the rural house / settlement the guide showed us some local produce. We got to eat boiled potatoes with something like mud... apparently it´s healthy.
The people compound had a guinea pig compound. Don´t forget it´s one of the favourite foods here.
The gate archway. Clever, it´s designed to look like the sun and it´s placed together with just gravity to hold it.
Notes
Accommodation in Puno: Cielo Andino Hospedaje, private room with bath. $7, incl Breakfast and useof kitchen. ****
3 hour tour which took 4 hours $7. *****
Wednesday 17 March 2010
Impressions of Bolivia
After 2.5 months I finally left Bolivia, but there is still more there that I want to visit but couldn´t because of the flood waters. By most travellers standards, I did spend a long time there. Bolivia is cheap, I liked it a lot, and I took my time because I planned to be there for carnival. Here are a few general things, impressions, I thought I would share about Bolivia.
Firstly, it seemed to me that the women do most the work, and mostly even Bolivians seemed to agree with this. I didn´t like it.
Then on top of them doing most the work, the men never give them a hand. A woman might be carrying a heavy load, struggling to get it and herself onto a bus, but no one will help unless it is to their benefit (like she is in their way, so they help to get her moving). Even as a blonde traveller who received numerous requests for my hand in marriage (!) I didn´t get assistance with my pack, ever.
Skirts, big skirts, don´t stop a woman doing anything! Wow, I saw professional wrestling by women in skirts, they run, hurdle over street barricades, shepherd, dig fields.... anything!, skirts didn´t seem to hinder them in activities in which western women would say "Give me a moment, I´ll just switch into something more practical".
Yogurt, apparently, doesn´t need refrigeration!
Bolivia has the lowest GDP of any South American Country, but they do miss a lot of opportunity to make money. Order a meal and they never ask if you´d like a drink, and they never come back to the table to ask if you´d like anything else (another drink, desert). Hotels rarely suggested things to do in town, those that did were foreign owned.
Another thing that bothered me was that 4 major tourist towns I visited didn´t have ATM´s (to withdraw cash from your card) suitable for foreign cards (there was a machine for local cards). Instead you could get money by waiting at a bank, with passport and photocopies of it, and pay 5% commision. This makes most tourists very careful about their spending, trying to budget and limit their stay to the cash they have. I really think that it´s very likely that corruption is keeping these towns from having an ATM.
My favourite place in Bolivia? It´s a tough call between Samaipata, for the natural beauty, and Rurrenbaque, for the edge of the jungle vibe.
And I definately recommend Carnival in Oruro to everyone!
I averaged about $USD220 per week in Bolivia. I ate well, did tours and even took a flight.
Firstly, it seemed to me that the women do most the work, and mostly even Bolivians seemed to agree with this. I didn´t like it.
Then on top of them doing most the work, the men never give them a hand. A woman might be carrying a heavy load, struggling to get it and herself onto a bus, but no one will help unless it is to their benefit (like she is in their way, so they help to get her moving). Even as a blonde traveller who received numerous requests for my hand in marriage (!) I didn´t get assistance with my pack, ever.
Skirts, big skirts, don´t stop a woman doing anything! Wow, I saw professional wrestling by women in skirts, they run, hurdle over street barricades, shepherd, dig fields.... anything!, skirts didn´t seem to hinder them in activities in which western women would say "Give me a moment, I´ll just switch into something more practical".
Yogurt, apparently, doesn´t need refrigeration!
Bolivia has the lowest GDP of any South American Country, but they do miss a lot of opportunity to make money. Order a meal and they never ask if you´d like a drink, and they never come back to the table to ask if you´d like anything else (another drink, desert). Hotels rarely suggested things to do in town, those that did were foreign owned.
Another thing that bothered me was that 4 major tourist towns I visited didn´t have ATM´s (to withdraw cash from your card) suitable for foreign cards (there was a machine for local cards). Instead you could get money by waiting at a bank, with passport and photocopies of it, and pay 5% commision. This makes most tourists very careful about their spending, trying to budget and limit their stay to the cash they have. I really think that it´s very likely that corruption is keeping these towns from having an ATM.
My favourite place in Bolivia? It´s a tough call between Samaipata, for the natural beauty, and Rurrenbaque, for the edge of the jungle vibe.
And I definately recommend Carnival in Oruro to everyone!
I averaged about $USD220 per week in Bolivia. I ate well, did tours and even took a flight.
Sleepness night on Isla del Sol
8-9 March 2010
Isla del Sol, Lake Titicaca, Bolivia
Foolish, Foolish, Foolish!
In Copacabana I met a guy from Guyana, who said he wanted to travel overland back to Guyana. He suggested we travel together, and that maybe, since I was going to the Isla del Sol, we could go together. Ok, I thought, seems harmless enough, and to travel with a Guyanan could be really interesting, and by going to the island I could test the situation. Having spent the afternoon in his company I thought I made it clear that I was interested in no more than a travel companion from him. However, he must have misunderstood my point.
We stayed overnight on the island, had an enjoyable dinner with other travelers, but as soon as he was alone with me after dinner he tried to force his attentions on me! At least 3 times I had to tell him to back off before finally he got angry (“Well, if I had of know you would be like this I wouldn´t have come”) and left me alone. Then I spent a sleepless night, angry and wondering what would happen next (nothing, whew!).
At dawn I watched the sunrise, grabbed my stuff, paid the bill, and left. I did say goodbye (with him saying “why do you treat me so badly?”).
Isla del Sol (Island of the sun) has settlements at the northern and southern ends of the island and there is a 4 hour walk connecting the two parts. It was lovely to do the walk first thing in the morning, I didn´t see another tourist but passed locals taking their llamas and donkeys to graze, and saw a few birds that I mightn´t otherwise have seen. The views were beautiful, and the temperature lovely. Lake Titicaca itself glistens in the colour of dark blue sapphires littered with sparkling diamonds.
When I arrived in the Northern town I had a few hours wait for the boat, so I grabbed a sandwich and a cup of tea and sat down to chat to another aussie traveller.
Back in Copacabana I decided to stay another night (I was very tired) and the next morning caught a bus to Puno.
Notes:
Transport to Isla del Sol, Going there $1.50, returning $3 (further).
Accommodation on island in nameless place with sunrise views $3pp, shared bathroom. ***
Dinner in restaurant with sunset views $6.
Isla del Sol, Lake Titicaca, Bolivia
Foolish, Foolish, Foolish!
In Copacabana I met a guy from Guyana, who said he wanted to travel overland back to Guyana. He suggested we travel together, and that maybe, since I was going to the Isla del Sol, we could go together. Ok, I thought, seems harmless enough, and to travel with a Guyanan could be really interesting, and by going to the island I could test the situation. Having spent the afternoon in his company I thought I made it clear that I was interested in no more than a travel companion from him. However, he must have misunderstood my point.
We stayed overnight on the island, had an enjoyable dinner with other travelers, but as soon as he was alone with me after dinner he tried to force his attentions on me! At least 3 times I had to tell him to back off before finally he got angry (“Well, if I had of know you would be like this I wouldn´t have come”) and left me alone. Then I spent a sleepless night, angry and wondering what would happen next (nothing, whew!).
At dawn I watched the sunrise, grabbed my stuff, paid the bill, and left. I did say goodbye (with him saying “why do you treat me so badly?”).
Isla del Sol (Island of the sun) has settlements at the northern and southern ends of the island and there is a 4 hour walk connecting the two parts. It was lovely to do the walk first thing in the morning, I didn´t see another tourist but passed locals taking their llamas and donkeys to graze, and saw a few birds that I mightn´t otherwise have seen. The views were beautiful, and the temperature lovely. Lake Titicaca itself glistens in the colour of dark blue sapphires littered with sparkling diamonds.
When I arrived in the Northern town I had a few hours wait for the boat, so I grabbed a sandwich and a cup of tea and sat down to chat to another aussie traveller.
Back in Copacabana I decided to stay another night (I was very tired) and the next morning caught a bus to Puno.
On Isla del Sol I was most impressed by the amount of terracing, built by the Incas to grow their crops. Most of it isn´t being used now... tourism makes more money with less work, I guess, and the work in these terraces would have been difficult. Still it´s a shame to see the land not being used.
Cute, these donkeys had a fantastic view from their window.
Sunset
Sunrise
Just one of the many views on my morning walk.
Another view on my morning walk, and yet more terracing.
Transport to Isla del Sol, Going there $1.50, returning $3 (further).
Accommodation on island in nameless place with sunrise views $3pp, shared bathroom. ***
Dinner in restaurant with sunset views $6.
Friday 12 March 2010
Economics of Travel
There are so many things that people ask me about travelling. I guess I am quite knowledgeable on the subject… my next country will be my 40th, not including places I have merely stopped in, and I have worked in a travel goods shop and advised visitors to Brisbane as supervisor at the Brisbane Visitor Information centre.
One of the things I often find myself explaining to people is the economics of travel. Here´s 3 pointers for everybody.
One of the things I often find myself explaining to people is the economics of travel. Here´s 3 pointers for everybody.
- Firstly, aside from the airfare, travel need-not be expensive.
- Secondly, Do the things you really want to do, now (if you are in the location to do them). Coming back to do then later is an unnecessary expense to time and money later on. Eg. In Rome, at the age of 22 (I think), I took the advice of a fellow backpacker who said I shouldn´t bother going into the Colosseum… he explained it was too expensive and not worth the expense. So I didn´t go. Unfortunately, I now regret having not set foot inside the Colosseum, no matter the expense, and I have resolved to go back one day see the Colosseum. The Airfares going to cost a whole lot more than the entry ticket ever did! Fortunately, it taught me a lesson early in my travelling life. If you have to beg for money from family and friends, do it!
- Thirdly, Time is money! Seriously, even though you are on holiday! There is no point taking a 36 hour bus ride instead of a 3 hour flight to save $100 if you earn $100 a day at home. Take the bus if you want to see the scenery at ground level, but not to save the money unless the saving is more than you would earn at home in the same time. And even then, think about it carefully, if you only have so much travel time you don´t want to be wasting it! In addition to this, I must say that vacation time really does have a value. It you take a 2 week vacation that costs $1000 in airfares, $100 in insurance, $100 per day in Accommodation, meals and drinks, then you are spending at least $2500 in that 2 weeks. If you have 12 hours of sightseeing each day (other hours are sleeping, washing, eating), by 12 days (usually the first day and the last are lost to the travel flights), then that $2500 divided by 144 hours of sightseeing equals about $17 per hour! So don´t waste it on slow transport!
Tuesday 9 March 2010
Aren´t we wanted?
Copacabana, Lake Titicaca, Bolivia.
Copacabana is a really touristy place... I have definately stepped back on the tourist trail. It is on the shores of Lake Titicaca, a beautiful blue lake, often incorrectly touted as being the highest navigatable lake in the world. From here you can go to the Islands on the lake (I´m going on the 1.30 boat), and to La Paz or into Peru to the tourist hotspots of Puno and Cuzco.
But the thing that most strikes me is that everybody seems to be trying to get you to leave. As you walk down the street there are continual offers of transport to La Paz, Puno, Cuzco and other places. Added to that when I went to breakfast this morning the first thing I was asked was if I was checking out today, and immediately after breakfast another staff member reminded me to check out. The hotel has made no attempt to show me activities to keep me here... but that´s kind of normal for Bolivia!
I took that horrible overnight bus into La Paz, but I didn´t waste time there, I went across town and caught a Micro to Huatajata. I´m not sure I have ever been to a place as quiet as Huatajata. There weren´t any other tourists so far as I could tell. But it was lovely. I went because it is possibly the only place left where you will find traditional reed artisans making boats from the reeds that grow on the shores of the Lake. It was interesting and I´m not disappointed I went although I do think it may have made a better lunch and look around stop, rather than an overnight stop.
Notes:
Accommodation, Huatajata: Inti Karka $6, including nothing. * there were 2 beds in my room, one had sand on the sheets so I wondered if they were clean, on the other the bottem sheet was badly torn down the middle and not covering much. Glad I travel with a travel sheet!
Accommodation, Copacabana: Hotel Colonial del Lago $4.50 including breakfast, shared loo... didn´t bother with the cold shower. ***** good value, and clean.
Copacabana is a really touristy place... I have definately stepped back on the tourist trail. It is on the shores of Lake Titicaca, a beautiful blue lake, often incorrectly touted as being the highest navigatable lake in the world. From here you can go to the Islands on the lake (I´m going on the 1.30 boat), and to La Paz or into Peru to the tourist hotspots of Puno and Cuzco.
But the thing that most strikes me is that everybody seems to be trying to get you to leave. As you walk down the street there are continual offers of transport to La Paz, Puno, Cuzco and other places. Added to that when I went to breakfast this morning the first thing I was asked was if I was checking out today, and immediately after breakfast another staff member reminded me to check out. The hotel has made no attempt to show me activities to keep me here... but that´s kind of normal for Bolivia!
I took that horrible overnight bus into La Paz, but I didn´t waste time there, I went across town and caught a Micro to Huatajata. I´m not sure I have ever been to a place as quiet as Huatajata. There weren´t any other tourists so far as I could tell. But it was lovely. I went because it is possibly the only place left where you will find traditional reed artisans making boats from the reeds that grow on the shores of the Lake. It was interesting and I´m not disappointed I went although I do think it may have made a better lunch and look around stop, rather than an overnight stop.
I found it interesting that on the shores of the Lake at Huatajata they grew small crops of legumes, flowers and some vegetables.
In Huatajata, I thought this a pretty shot.
When I arrived in Copacabana it was Sunday and all this cars were waiting outsides the church to be blessed.
These are modernised versions of the reed boats, they have motors!
View of the shore front of Copacabana.
Accommodation, Huatajata: Inti Karka $6, including nothing. * there were 2 beds in my room, one had sand on the sheets so I wondered if they were clean, on the other the bottem sheet was badly torn down the middle and not covering much. Glad I travel with a travel sheet!
Accommodation, Copacabana: Hotel Colonial del Lago $4.50 including breakfast, shared loo... didn´t bother with the cold shower. ***** good value, and clean.
Saturday 6 March 2010
Animals in the know! Madidi Travel tour, Rurrenbaque, Bolivia
25 February - 5 March 2010, Rurrenbaque, Bolivia
When we spotted the Coati´s in the wild the guide said it was odd, the Coatis were in the trees and normally were seen in the ground. I thought to myself, big flood coming. I was right. Two days later when it was time to leave the jungle (called ´Serere´ and owned by Madidi Travel) we found ourselves wading through thigh deep water to get to where the boat was on the river. And this was in an area of Caimans, snakes, and Tarantulas! Yikes!
I was on a jungle tour with Madidi Travel. Ironically, they are the people who established Madidi National Park, one of the largest protected areas in the world, yet they run their tours on private property outside the park whilst countless other operators run tours in the park itself. They are one of the more expensive operators, having being written about 10 years ago by National Geographic for there role in establishing the conservation area. Definately they are an environmentally conscience operation, and I wanted that, and besides, traveling alone in low season I found I wasn´t getting much other choice of operators. I went for 4 days in the jungle, accommodation was in big screened cabins, and dining was in a communal big screened house. There was no electricity.
There were 2 other girls, both from England in my group, although they only did 3 days. We went canoeing on the lake (well the guide paddled), went for hikes, and ate pirañas. On the first afternoon of canoeing a whopping great big fish jumped into the boat. That was really exciting! and We ate it the next day. In the canoeing we saw numerous birds and caimans (like little crocodiles if you don´t know). Hiking we saw Spider monkeys, Chapuchin Monkeys, Squirrel monkeys, night monkeys (at night of course), red squirrels, deer, coatis, frogs, lots of spiders, a tarantula, and alone walking between the cabins and the big house I spotted a oppossum, a massive toad (way bigger than a cane toad), and the biggest frog I have ever seen too.
I must mention the mosquitos.... they came in swarms and were vicious! Fortunately Serere doesn´t have Malaria, Dengue, or Yellow Fever.
I actually wouldn´t recommend going with Madidi travel in this season, too many mosquitos and too much water. Also I myself wouldn´t recommend it to travelers like myself. I met 8 other travelledrs there at the communal meals, all traveling in pairs and all scared of everything. Meals were boring, as they kept it safe for the timid travel that they attracted. Others wouldn´t sample the forest fruits.
When my two ´companions´ left I had another day with my guide to myself. So we spent a lot more time looking for wildlife.... he indicated it was too hard with the stress the others were having about being in the jungle with spiders and mosquitos.
The return to Rurrenbaque was challenging, for the boat driver. After wading through the thigh deep water to get to the boat the current was flowing heavy in the opposite direction to what we had to travel and there was a lot of debris. The motorised canoe continually crossed to the parts of the least strong flow, and eventually we made it back. We spotted both 2 toed and 3 toed sloths from the river.
My intention after Rurre was to head to the border with Brazil and take boats through the amazon, but after seeing the water in the Beni River, which was headed for the Amazon, I checked my guide book which said Amazon wet season is March to May and sometimes difficult, I decided to go back to the pacific coast.
I booked a flight, but all were cancelled due to the muddy airstrip, so I just got off a 19 hour, overnight, bus trip sitting over the rear unsuspensioned axle. ouch! At least it was a 7th the price!
When we spotted the Coati´s in the wild the guide said it was odd, the Coatis were in the trees and normally were seen in the ground. I thought to myself, big flood coming. I was right. Two days later when it was time to leave the jungle (called ´Serere´ and owned by Madidi Travel) we found ourselves wading through thigh deep water to get to where the boat was on the river. And this was in an area of Caimans, snakes, and Tarantulas! Yikes!
I was on a jungle tour with Madidi Travel. Ironically, they are the people who established Madidi National Park, one of the largest protected areas in the world, yet they run their tours on private property outside the park whilst countless other operators run tours in the park itself. They are one of the more expensive operators, having being written about 10 years ago by National Geographic for there role in establishing the conservation area. Definately they are an environmentally conscience operation, and I wanted that, and besides, traveling alone in low season I found I wasn´t getting much other choice of operators. I went for 4 days in the jungle, accommodation was in big screened cabins, and dining was in a communal big screened house. There was no electricity.
There were 2 other girls, both from England in my group, although they only did 3 days. We went canoeing on the lake (well the guide paddled), went for hikes, and ate pirañas. On the first afternoon of canoeing a whopping great big fish jumped into the boat. That was really exciting! and We ate it the next day. In the canoeing we saw numerous birds and caimans (like little crocodiles if you don´t know). Hiking we saw Spider monkeys, Chapuchin Monkeys, Squirrel monkeys, night monkeys (at night of course), red squirrels, deer, coatis, frogs, lots of spiders, a tarantula, and alone walking between the cabins and the big house I spotted a oppossum, a massive toad (way bigger than a cane toad), and the biggest frog I have ever seen too.
I must mention the mosquitos.... they came in swarms and were vicious! Fortunately Serere doesn´t have Malaria, Dengue, or Yellow Fever.
I actually wouldn´t recommend going with Madidi travel in this season, too many mosquitos and too much water. Also I myself wouldn´t recommend it to travelers like myself. I met 8 other travelledrs there at the communal meals, all traveling in pairs and all scared of everything. Meals were boring, as they kept it safe for the timid travel that they attracted. Others wouldn´t sample the forest fruits.
When my two ´companions´ left I had another day with my guide to myself. So we spent a lot more time looking for wildlife.... he indicated it was too hard with the stress the others were having about being in the jungle with spiders and mosquitos.
The return to Rurrenbaque was challenging, for the boat driver. After wading through the thigh deep water to get to the boat the current was flowing heavy in the opposite direction to what we had to travel and there was a lot of debris. The motorised canoe continually crossed to the parts of the least strong flow, and eventually we made it back. We spotted both 2 toed and 3 toed sloths from the river.
My intention after Rurre was to head to the border with Brazil and take boats through the amazon, but after seeing the water in the Beni River, which was headed for the Amazon, I checked my guide book which said Amazon wet season is March to May and sometimes difficult, I decided to go back to the pacific coast.
I booked a flight, but all were cancelled due to the muddy airstrip, so I just got off a 19 hour, overnight, bus trip sitting over the rear unsuspensioned axle. ouch! At least it was a 7th the price!
The fish that caught itself by jumping into the canoe! Delicious.
My travel companions, and the guide, doing the mosquito flap (waving hands to chase them), continually.
How is it that I have such an ability to attract tame monkeys? (That and black men who mightn´t be so tame!) This monkey had been hand raised (found as a baby, no mother, mother probably killed by Indigenous people, they eat them), and released into the wild. There were 4 of us, 3 tourists and the guide, yet the monkey can straight to me and climbed up and clung to me, it even resisted being removed. No kisses this time, fortunately, but a longing that suggested it really didn´t like the jungle and would like to go back to the human settlement. ("Ali, please take me home").
Leave your shoes out to dry in the jungle and they might become a handy place for baby spiders to live.
Blew me away when I saw the Naval base at Rurrenbaque. Boivia has no sea and I was in the ´backwaters´. But then you go look at the big Beni River, which is part of the Amazon system, and realise the possibilities. Rurrenbaque is on the banks of the Beni River.
Notes:
Accommodation, Rurrenbaque: Hotel Oriental $10 private bath, breakfast included. ***** loved this hotel from the moment I walked in and they presented me a glass of fresh juice.
Tour: Madidi Travel SLR to Serere. $69 per day, all included. This price was for shared room and Spanish speaking guide. $10 more for private room and English. I had the room to myself anyway.
Flight (cancelled) Rurre to La Paz, 40 minutes $60. Bus Rurre to La Paz, 19 hours, $9.
Working too hard
My taxi driver, a collectivo taxi, from Caranavi to Yacumo, talked to me quite a bit, as I was in the front seat. He was Bolivian and he told me about his 6 months of working, doing roofing, in Italy.
I asked him why he returned (a western assumption perhaps that life may be better in Italy). He said he didn´t like it how you had to work so many hours in Italy, in Bolivia you just work a few hours, that´s all. What? I thought. Everybody only makes just enough money to get by here, in the developed work you work to earn enough to buy things you don´t need and to travel. But then I understood, in the western world there is an expectation to work many hours in the week, in Bolivia you work what is needed and leave some for somebody else.
hmmm, still I think I´d be bored. They really, mostly, do nothing in their spare time. Well, that´s how it seems to me.
I asked him why he returned (a western assumption perhaps that life may be better in Italy). He said he didn´t like it how you had to work so many hours in Italy, in Bolivia you just work a few hours, that´s all. What? I thought. Everybody only makes just enough money to get by here, in the developed work you work to earn enough to buy things you don´t need and to travel. But then I understood, in the western world there is an expectation to work many hours in the week, in Bolivia you work what is needed and leave some for somebody else.
hmmm, still I think I´d be bored. They really, mostly, do nothing in their spare time. Well, that´s how it seems to me.
Wednesday 3 March 2010
Lazy days in Coroico, Bolivia
19-24 February 2010
Even though I had caught a head cold, I figured it was time to get out of Oruro. I had been there a week! So I took a bus to La Paz, a little micro bus across town to the place of departures to Coroico, and, in the rain, with my runny nose, got to walk to find transport to Coroico. I found a collective Taxi (this means you share it with other people), and away we went. Even in the rain it was a spectacular drive.
My hotel was lovely, expensive by Bolivian standards, but I didn´t mind. (5 nights with breakfast and most meals cost a little over $100). The food was quite good too.
People love Coroico, but if I wasn´t feeling the effects of my runny nose I would have been bored. I did manage a hike to waterfalls with other guests. They were nothing to rave about, but pleasant.
Avoiding night buses, I left Coroico in another collective Taxi to Caranavi, then waited 2 hours for another to Yacumo.
We arrived in the town of Yacumo at about 10pm. It was like a wild west scene, Bolivian style. I was intrigued, and not ready for another taxi ride, I stayed the night. I ate beef and rice in the street (one can´t be too picky in the wild wild west of Bolivia), and went to bed in the cheapest hotel of my whole stay. (I rejected a more expensive place due to the door not locking on the room).
I the morning I waited another 1.5 hours for another Taxi to Rurrenbaque. I arrived in the rain, and jumped on a MotoTaxi, pack and all to a sweet hotel.
Now I am looking for jungle tours.
And guess what? I am in the Amazon!
More typical housing in Yacumo, 3 styles on display... in the far left of the photo you can see the shower in the front yard.
Notes¨
Accommodation: Coroico, Hotel Esmeralda $13 per night, private room, shared bath, buffet breakfast included. *** I didn´t feel like I could trust management for some reason. And I wished they would keep the toilet paper supply up to the rate of usage!
Yacumo, Hotel Tropical $3 per night. Nothing included. **** Go to bed to the sounds of fireworks, frogs, and insects, Wake to the sounds of Roosters and cows.
Transport, Collective Taxi´s: La Paz to Coroico $3.75 (3 hours); Coroico to Caranavi $3.75 (2 hours); Caranavi to Yacumo (6 hours) $9; Yacumo to Rurenbaque (2hours) $6.
Even though I had caught a head cold, I figured it was time to get out of Oruro. I had been there a week! So I took a bus to La Paz, a little micro bus across town to the place of departures to Coroico, and, in the rain, with my runny nose, got to walk to find transport to Coroico. I found a collective Taxi (this means you share it with other people), and away we went. Even in the rain it was a spectacular drive.
My hotel was lovely, expensive by Bolivian standards, but I didn´t mind. (5 nights with breakfast and most meals cost a little over $100). The food was quite good too.
People love Coroico, but if I wasn´t feeling the effects of my runny nose I would have been bored. I did manage a hike to waterfalls with other guests. They were nothing to rave about, but pleasant.
Avoiding night buses, I left Coroico in another collective Taxi to Caranavi, then waited 2 hours for another to Yacumo.
We arrived in the town of Yacumo at about 10pm. It was like a wild west scene, Bolivian style. I was intrigued, and not ready for another taxi ride, I stayed the night. I ate beef and rice in the street (one can´t be too picky in the wild wild west of Bolivia), and went to bed in the cheapest hotel of my whole stay. (I rejected a more expensive place due to the door not locking on the room).
I the morning I waited another 1.5 hours for another Taxi to Rurrenbaque. I arrived in the rain, and jumped on a MotoTaxi, pack and all to a sweet hotel.
Now I am looking for jungle tours.
And guess what? I am in the Amazon!
Around Coroico.
Coca leaves growing on steep slopes. The general population chews a lot of coca in Bolivia. It´s also used in the production of Cocaine, and is used in Coca-cola (de-actived from potency now).
Sea-saw at the fork in the road.
Cute! House in Yacumo.
More typical housing in Yacumo, 3 styles on display... in the far left of the photo you can see the shower in the front yard.
The shopping part of Yacumo.
Notes¨
Accommodation: Coroico, Hotel Esmeralda $13 per night, private room, shared bath, buffet breakfast included. *** I didn´t feel like I could trust management for some reason. And I wished they would keep the toilet paper supply up to the rate of usage!
Yacumo, Hotel Tropical $3 per night. Nothing included. **** Go to bed to the sounds of fireworks, frogs, and insects, Wake to the sounds of Roosters and cows.
Transport, Collective Taxi´s: La Paz to Coroico $3.75 (3 hours); Coroico to Caranavi $3.75 (2 hours); Caranavi to Yacumo (6 hours) $9; Yacumo to Rurenbaque (2hours) $6.
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