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Thursday 28 March 2013

Cursing the colour of my skin; Camels in desert

It was time to leave Jaisalmer, but I liked it enough to stay on had the manager of my hotel not started trying to get a little too friendly with me. So, when I was told that someone had a spare seat in a car going in the direction of Jaipur, I took it.

I had, in fact, gone to Jaisalmer with the intention of going on a camel safari in the Thar desert for about 6 days. But I had a strict stipulation: there must be at least one other western tourist going. So, this is what I aimed for (although I didn't get what I'd wished for).

Pretty much everybody selling the safaris told me straight "no, not possible, at this time everyone goes for one or one-and-a-half days.... Besides, our camel men are professional; you'll be safe". But I was determined.

One seller said he had someone going for 4 days and offered to take me at a really high price (1550 per day). He didn't like it when I asked to meet the Swiss German tourist, so I decided to keep looking. I just wanted to be sure he existed (otherwise you get the story next day 'oh, he's sick and not coming today so you're on your own, you'll be fine').

Then I went to another operator who said they had 2 Colombians, an American, and a Scandinavian going for 3 days that I could join with, and then extend another 3 days if I was comfortable with things.. I didn't ask to meet them... I figured there was enough that some at least would go. I booked.

The next morning, when I joined the safari, I was disappointed to find that everybody else (no Colombians or Scandinavians) was doing 1 or 1.5 days. I had suspicions I'd been lied to.

At the end of the day they asked if I'd like to extend. I said 'no, your boss doesn't deserve to make more money from me'.

The next day we dropped off the one day people and picked up a Canadian (also 1 day) and did a circuit almost the same as what we'd done on day 1. I have a reasonable sense of direction... We were covering almost the same terrain each day.

At the end of day 2 there was just me and the Canadian. They asked again if I wanted to do more days, but I said 'not if we are going to keep covering the same ground' , so no. They then suggested I return half a day earlier with Canadian and get a refund for the unused time. I agreed.

On returning from my camel safari my back muscles were so sore that I decided not to get transport out from Jaisalmer for a few days. And so I hung around chatting to locals and drinking chai with them.

They taught me a few viewpoints...
That white women are 'easy'. The younger ones are a bit harder to get into bed, but the older female white traveller is easy. The older: the easier.
That Japanese women are not easy.

Then I learnt about a Japanese woman who was on a 9 day safari alone.

I considered this.... but, she can.! As a woman of a race with a 'good' reputation she probably won't have to fend off unwanted advances from a tour guide or camel man. But it mightn't be so for me.

I find this so very disappointing. Just for the record I am definitely am not the type of girl to look for a bit of holiday fling, so to be tarred with that same brush is just annoying. But, at least I'm wise enough to know to insist on no solo tours.

All in all, I did love riding the camels. My experience wasn't the best and I wouldn't recommend the operator I went with (Ganesh Travels) unless you just want the shortest possible 'tick the box' of having rode a camel experience. I would recommend finding another operator, probably paying a bit more, and having one that took you into the Thar Desert and the Desert National Park. And for multiple days? Bring a friend if you can, get an itinerary that goes somewhere (have a destination), and I've heard that stirrups help lessen the pain.

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