Venturing out, Single, blonde and all alone in South America

(Thursday)

Looking down the tracks of a 'Ascensor' (Elevator) along the coast of Valparaiso.

Well, I left Santiago! I caught the metro to the bus station, then the bus to Valparaiso, then a crowded collective bus to the gas station, then hiked up a hill and checked into a hostel. Phew! It all seemed so challenging, the first time in a strange country where I don’t quite get the language, catching buses to a strange place … I know I’ve done similar before but I still feel relieved when I achieve these things successfully.

Santiago was like a more successful version of every Latin American city I had visited in Central America. Valparaiso on the other hand is quite different to anywhere else I have ever been. It’s a seaside city that reaches up steep hills, and I don’t know if I’m willing to hike far enough to find if it sprawls down the other side of those hills.

I had lunch at J Cruz. It was described as a truly local place. They served up a big plate of greasy fries topped with egg, onion, and a mountain of braised beef. The walls were lined with kitsch, passport sized photos of visitors past, and graffiti. It reminded me of the Williams Creek Hotel in the middle of Australia which serves similar grub, and has walls lined with graffiti, business cards, and underwear. No doubt it’s a truly local experience too.

J Cruz Restaurant, local flavour or tourist flavour?

Unesco World Heritage listed Valparaiso is really steep with hills. To counter this problem it has ancient hillside elevators, called Ascensores at frequent intervals. They were all built between 1883 and 1916. I loved my ride on the rattly elevator up the hill…like a slow moving old roller-coaster that might let go at any moment; in reality I don't think Dreamworlds rides aren't nearly as dangerous.

One going up, one coming down, an old Ascensor of Valparaiso.