The drive from Dharamsala to Manali and Manali back down to Simla is really spectacular. Definitely do it by day: it'd be hard to sleep on the windy roads anyway. And, next time I might even take a car or motorbike.
Shimla (Simla, both spellings seem used), is an Indian tourist town. We got in at dark and left on the first train the next morning, so we didn't explore town.
The guide books (Lonely Planet) says that one of the delights to visiting Simla is taking the toy train up to it or down from it, so that's what we were there for. Jon wanted to take the 8.30am train for better light (for photography), turns out it's the locals train: Rs20 each (18c), 6 hours traveling, and over 100 tunnels with the young locals screaming throughout each tunnel (just for fun). It was definitely an earplugs day.
I made friends with some local teenage girls, and at the end one said it had been her dream to meet a foreigner and she was so happy. Of course we took photos for her memories, and I was happy to have brightened her day.
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