This article is to help others with their packing.
Lots of the other pilgrims asked me how I was travelling with such a light pack. I wondered how they'd made theirs so heavy!
Of course, I have years of travel experience and time in a travel outfitter shop to help my expertise, but still I'm proud that I had less that 6kgs in my pack (it would have been less if it wasn't so cold too!).
It is said that you should only carry no more than 10% of your own body weight, so even I was carrying a bit "too much". However a lot of people had more than 10kgs, even though most of them do annual pilgrimages.
So, what did I take?
1 day pack and a satchel.
2 sets of clothes, with layering ability for warmth, I could wash what I hiked in that day at the end of the hiking and it would be dry before bedtime to re-wear the next day.
The sets included:
2 Bras
2 Singlets/vests for underwear
2 Long sleeved fitted thermal shirts*
2 Long sleeved, collared shirts. (One is rated for sun protection, I hiked in it every day. The other is a silk cotton blend, light. Both dry quickly after hand washing.)
2 pairs trousers (zip off were recommended, so I took a pair but preferred to hike in the others as the leg zipper irritated my skin).
Also:
1 set PJs. (Actually long sleeved trousers and shirt that I could wear out if wanted).
3 pairs socks
3 pairs panties (quick drying)
1 pair thermal leggings*
1 sweater
1 Hat: broad brimmed & waterproof
1 rain poncho (reusable type with clips... I could use it and some cord to make a shelter if needed. )
1 pair 'Croc' sandals (I really like crocs for travel, there are lots of different styles. I can wear mine casually, or in the shower. When using shared bathrooms you should wear water suitable shoes in the shower to avoid getting fungus infections). Crocs are also soft underfoot at the end of the day.
1 swimsuit (for thermal baths)
1 silk sleep sheet (everybody else had sleeping bags but there was always at least a few blankets available to those who asked).
1 silk scarf. You need a pillow slip! But European pillows aren't the same shape as Aussie ones, so I wrapped the pillow in my scarf. Silk is light (and they say it keeps you younger!)
1 sarong (not needed really)
Toiletry bag: really basic and obvious stuff. Less obvious: Shampoo bar (takes less space and won't spill), multi purpose soap (for skin and laundry, I'm told I could use it for hair too...). Sunscreen (but not much as I wear long sleeves, long trousers and a hat). Moisturiser (I had oil for my hair which I used on my skin too).
Towel: I don't have a big towel. Just this: a face washer (flannel) that I use in the shower to clean with, then I use it to wipe off excess water from my body. Then I have tiny (like 30cm squared) thin 'N-rit' travel towel to dry off the rest. I have a second one of these for my feet and crocs.
1 Water bottle, 1litre. And a disposable 500 ml bottle too. (I believe that if it's at all true that these shouldn't be reused because they breakdown, then we shouldn't be drinking from them at all).
1 sunglasses.
1 basic first aid kit: things for injuries.
1 a length of cord (didn't need it)
Smart phone. On this I had the guides (Apps) to the camino, Spanish-English dictionary, podcasts to listen too, books to read. I didn't carry any paperwork other than a small notebook and map.
Note: I always pay a lot and buy good hiking socks, as I believe that socks are as important as shoes for not getting blisters. I didn't get any blisters, but it was the number one complaint of other hikers. 1 pair of socks had individual toes, these were my favourite for hiking.
* I had intended to throw away the thermal layers as soon as the weather was warm enough.... But it didn't stay warm long enough.
I saw a pilgrim with a hair dryer: very unnecessary!
Advice: Test the hand washing and drying before you go - you want fast drying layers: you want to carry less items, lighter and more effective items, and you certainly don't want to be carrying items that don't dry on time (you won't be able to wear them then next day and wet clothes weigh more!)
Sun protection: I saw quite a few pilgrims with severe sunburn, some with blisters. Take the sun seriously! I prefer to wear long sleeves, sunscreen makes me hot, makes dirt stick to the skin, and sweats off and has to be reapplied.
I hope this helps!!!
Showing posts with label Via de la Plata. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Via de la Plata. Show all posts
Wednesday, 22 May 2013
Saturday, 18 May 2013
Camino: people met along the way
One of my reasons for hiking a camino was to see who I'd meet. Here's a summary of 3 of interest:
The French juvenile delinquent (if that's the right thing to call him). He was walking with a social worker and she told me about this system of treatment. They'd been walking almost 3 months, from France along the Camino Frances to Santiago de Compostela, and then backwards along the Via de la Plata. Both had heavy packs and didn't have the cool gear that makes a pack lighter (like travel towels, and high tech sports wear). She said it was meant that in 3 months (they were almost finished) he'd have had time to reflect on the crimes he'd done and about changes he could make to improve his future.
I spoke to him too, and asked what he would do when he got home, he said he'd go back to school and hopefully help sick people. She'd told me he'd had a terrible upbringing. He's 18.
The ex-Political Prisoner. Honestly when I heard this it had taken me by surprise. But this man had been East German and imprisoned from, I think, 1971-1975. His English wasn't so good, so I couldn't get a lot of information. He said something about secret service.
I only found out about this because he checked into an albergue just after me and was distressed to find the room had no window. He said after bring imprisoned he really preferred to have a window.
The man with a Donkey: I met him in Seville and he left a few days before me, first going North East to pick up a donkey he'd bought to do the camino with. I later ran into him a couple of times more. He looked like he was having a really difficult time, perhaps he hadn't realised how difficult donkeys can be? He said the donkey was stubborn and progress was difficult, especially through town. Later I tried to assist him when he requested, but hurt my knee again in the process.
The French juvenile delinquent (if that's the right thing to call him). He was walking with a social worker and she told me about this system of treatment. They'd been walking almost 3 months, from France along the Camino Frances to Santiago de Compostela, and then backwards along the Via de la Plata. Both had heavy packs and didn't have the cool gear that makes a pack lighter (like travel towels, and high tech sports wear). She said it was meant that in 3 months (they were almost finished) he'd have had time to reflect on the crimes he'd done and about changes he could make to improve his future.
I spoke to him too, and asked what he would do when he got home, he said he'd go back to school and hopefully help sick people. She'd told me he'd had a terrible upbringing. He's 18.
The ex-Political Prisoner. Honestly when I heard this it had taken me by surprise. But this man had been East German and imprisoned from, I think, 1971-1975. His English wasn't so good, so I couldn't get a lot of information. He said something about secret service.
I only found out about this because he checked into an albergue just after me and was distressed to find the room had no window. He said after bring imprisoned he really preferred to have a window.
The man with a Donkey: I met him in Seville and he left a few days before me, first going North East to pick up a donkey he'd bought to do the camino with. I later ran into him a couple of times more. He looked like he was having a really difficult time, perhaps he hadn't realised how difficult donkeys can be? He said the donkey was stubborn and progress was difficult, especially through town. Later I tried to assist him when he requested, but hurt my knee again in the process.
Friday, 17 May 2013
Camino: robberies
Those who have been following this blog know that I had a terrible robbery on day 1 of hiking Via de la Plata from Seville.
I have met lots if people travelling alone, male and female, so I was unlucky but I do recommend hiking the southern sections with company.
However, I'm not the only one to be robbed. I recently met a pilgrim who said she came through on that same first stage as me (to Guillena), some 4 days prior, just behind a couple who had also been robbed by 2 men in balaclavas with knives (yes, a couple... 2 people together!). She wished she'd thought to tell others in the forum and guide as I had.
The night following the robbery a Dutch man had told me in that in the Guillena Albergue he had laid awake at night when he realised someone was coming through the window. He clapped his hand loudly, the intruder left, and he got up and closed the window. Unfortunately he didn't tell anyone in Guillena, but there was no hospitelero when we all left. I later heard that the following night a toiletry bag was stolen from that hostel. (Really, what a nuisance! I'd be disappointed to lose my toiletry bag and the thief should be disappointed to have it.)
Later I met a guy from Belgium who had his backpack stolen from the hostel while he slept in Castilblanco. He caught a bus back to the next big town (Camas), and bought a new one and some new things and continued. Fortunately he said that he had a lot of things out of his pack so they didn't steal everything.
And in Caceres, the day I left, I was sitting in a bar, at the bar, having breakfast (note, I haven't taken up 7am drinking, breakfast is eaten in bars in Spain). I had casually put my bags down. Then I sensed trouble. A young person had come in behind me with the pretence of going to the cigarette vending machine. But I really think she'd been going to snatch one of my bags, so I got up and moved them both to under my guard. She left without cigarettes or bags.
Still, it should be disappointing for me and the thief should my backpack or my food bag be stolen. Not a single thing in either should be of value to anybody else. No electronic gear, no money. Just dirty worn out clothes, and an old toiletry bag inside an old daypack that's getting holes. And an old food bag has opened packets of dried fruits and nuts, tea bags, and water.
Two thieves have already turned down the contents of my bags!
I have met lots if people travelling alone, male and female, so I was unlucky but I do recommend hiking the southern sections with company.
However, I'm not the only one to be robbed. I recently met a pilgrim who said she came through on that same first stage as me (to Guillena), some 4 days prior, just behind a couple who had also been robbed by 2 men in balaclavas with knives (yes, a couple... 2 people together!). She wished she'd thought to tell others in the forum and guide as I had.
The night following the robbery a Dutch man had told me in that in the Guillena Albergue he had laid awake at night when he realised someone was coming through the window. He clapped his hand loudly, the intruder left, and he got up and closed the window. Unfortunately he didn't tell anyone in Guillena, but there was no hospitelero when we all left. I later heard that the following night a toiletry bag was stolen from that hostel. (Really, what a nuisance! I'd be disappointed to lose my toiletry bag and the thief should be disappointed to have it.)
Later I met a guy from Belgium who had his backpack stolen from the hostel while he slept in Castilblanco. He caught a bus back to the next big town (Camas), and bought a new one and some new things and continued. Fortunately he said that he had a lot of things out of his pack so they didn't steal everything.
And in Caceres, the day I left, I was sitting in a bar, at the bar, having breakfast (note, I haven't taken up 7am drinking, breakfast is eaten in bars in Spain). I had casually put my bags down. Then I sensed trouble. A young person had come in behind me with the pretence of going to the cigarette vending machine. But I really think she'd been going to snatch one of my bags, so I got up and moved them both to under my guard. She left without cigarettes or bags.
Still, it should be disappointing for me and the thief should my backpack or my food bag be stolen. Not a single thing in either should be of value to anybody else. No electronic gear, no money. Just dirty worn out clothes, and an old toiletry bag inside an old daypack that's getting holes. And an old food bag has opened packets of dried fruits and nuts, tea bags, and water.
Two thieves have already turned down the contents of my bags!
Tuesday, 14 May 2013
Camino: why do a pilgrimage?
Traditionally people would walk a pilgrimage for religious reasons and the Via de la Plata is an old Catholic pilgrimage route and an old roman road too, but these days the reasons for doing a pilgrimage are many and I have met very few religious pilgrims.
Many are simply walking for some time away from the modern world, and for exercise. Some are trying to decide on some important life changes, and are taking time to reflect. Many, to test themselves.
Many do one of the Camino's every year. There are lots to choose from. Remember I'm not doing the famous one, but the Via de la Plata.
The christian side of the camino is interesting. Apparently the pilgrimage can be a penance for crimes. And this does make me curious about the super religious types who have done the pilgrimage multiple times. Apparently there is a prison (in France I think), that has a policy of releasing a prisoner each year if they walk the French camino to Compostela with a heavy pack and guard. I kind of met one of these teams.
For me, I was attracted to the camino for a multitude of reasons but mostly, I wanted to walk from villages to small towns, amongst farms, woodlands and open views, enjoying the company I met and eating the wonderful regional foods of Spain.
Many are simply walking for some time away from the modern world, and for exercise. Some are trying to decide on some important life changes, and are taking time to reflect. Many, to test themselves.
Many do one of the Camino's every year. There are lots to choose from. Remember I'm not doing the famous one, but the Via de la Plata.
The christian side of the camino is interesting. Apparently the pilgrimage can be a penance for crimes. And this does make me curious about the super religious types who have done the pilgrimage multiple times. Apparently there is a prison (in France I think), that has a policy of releasing a prisoner each year if they walk the French camino to Compostela with a heavy pack and guard. I kind of met one of these teams.
For me, I was attracted to the camino for a multitude of reasons but mostly, I wanted to walk from villages to small towns, amongst farms, woodlands and open views, enjoying the company I met and eating the wonderful regional foods of Spain.
Camino: Day 14, reflecting on WOMAD
Sunday became a rest day for me. The German man had decided to walk and the German woman decided to rest her ankle problems for another day. It seemed reasonable to me to wait and go with her. In the end the man decided to wait too.
During the WOMAD festival I'd discovered my knee still hurt too much: I couldn't dance! So, this is why I chose a rest day. (Plus I'd had to stay up past midnight to see the Australian band 'the Barons of Tang', who were interesting...)
There are a few things I'd like to tell you about the festival, things that caught my attention:
Staying up: No matter what age a Spaniard is, they can and will stay up late, really late. I mean at home and elsewhere children are in bed by 8 or 9, and old people seem to choose this too. But in Spain I've seen toddlers and kids of all ages out (with parents) at midnight. And people beyond retirement ages too.
Haircuts: maybe it was the crowd attracted to WOMAD but Spain has more bad haircuts than anywhere I've ever been. Mullets, rats tails, undercuts, shaved off one side, dreadlocks of varying sizes on the same head, wacky fringes. This is on both guys and girls. But I like the spirit of it, I'm wondering if I should get an undercut and a wacky fringe?
Booze: apparently BYO to the festival isn't a problem. Young adults carried in 5 litres water bottles filled with wine which would be mixed with Coca-cola. They drank this from the biggest cups I've ever seen. See the picture below which shows the situation: almost everybody brought booze in.
The Spanish certainly know how to make a great fiesta!
During the WOMAD festival I'd discovered my knee still hurt too much: I couldn't dance! So, this is why I chose a rest day. (Plus I'd had to stay up past midnight to see the Australian band 'the Barons of Tang', who were interesting...)
There are a few things I'd like to tell you about the festival, things that caught my attention:
Staying up: No matter what age a Spaniard is, they can and will stay up late, really late. I mean at home and elsewhere children are in bed by 8 or 9, and old people seem to choose this too. But in Spain I've seen toddlers and kids of all ages out (with parents) at midnight. And people beyond retirement ages too.
Haircuts: maybe it was the crowd attracted to WOMAD but Spain has more bad haircuts than anywhere I've ever been. Mullets, rats tails, undercuts, shaved off one side, dreadlocks of varying sizes on the same head, wacky fringes. This is on both guys and girls. But I like the spirit of it, I'm wondering if I should get an undercut and a wacky fringe?
Booze: apparently BYO to the festival isn't a problem. Young adults carried in 5 litres water bottles filled with wine which would be mixed with Coca-cola. They drank this from the biggest cups I've ever seen. See the picture below which shows the situation: almost everybody brought booze in.
The Spanish certainly know how to make a great fiesta!
Sunday, 12 May 2013
Camino: Day 11; perfect!
Today was exactly how I thought the camino should be! I'm simply happy. Maybe the blessing of the priest last night worked? (It was a lovely blessing, even without being religious I felt privileged to receive it).
I wasn't woken too early. I had a leisurely breakfast, with other pilgrims, in a bar near last nights' accommodation.
I walked most of the 15kms alone. I passed others, I was passed by others, and I was accompanied for awhile while hiking and again whilst sitting in a village rest point.
I found coffee between 10 and 11 in a roadside bar (it was bad coffee, but anyway).
The scenery was beautiful and interesting. (More wildflowers, cattle farms, oak and olive plantations, sheep, roman bridges and roman road markers. Today we actually followed the actual old roman path and also a stock route.).
The sun shone and the temperature was perfect.
I walked at a reasonable pace, my knee is a lot better than it was, and I'm doing manageable distances.
I arrived by lunchtime at the albergue and had a wonderful menu del dia in the village.
I chatted with other pilgrims and a German woman wanted to cook so 4 of us had a communal dinner.
It was a simply lovely day!
I'm in Aldea del Cano.
I wasn't woken too early. I had a leisurely breakfast, with other pilgrims, in a bar near last nights' accommodation.
I walked most of the 15kms alone. I passed others, I was passed by others, and I was accompanied for awhile while hiking and again whilst sitting in a village rest point.
I found coffee between 10 and 11 in a roadside bar (it was bad coffee, but anyway).
The scenery was beautiful and interesting. (More wildflowers, cattle farms, oak and olive plantations, sheep, roman bridges and roman road markers. Today we actually followed the actual old roman path and also a stock route.).
The sun shone and the temperature was perfect.
I walked at a reasonable pace, my knee is a lot better than it was, and I'm doing manageable distances.
I arrived by lunchtime at the albergue and had a wonderful menu del dia in the village.
I chatted with other pilgrims and a German woman wanted to cook so 4 of us had a communal dinner.
It was a simply lovely day!
I'm in Aldea del Cano.
Saturday, 11 May 2013
Camino: Day 12 & 13; such luck!
My knee is getting better and better. Yesterday I hiked 11kms to a sleepy little village thinking I'd stop there the night. But, having reached there by midday I decided that it looked rather boring and since 11kms is enough for my knee I would take the bus to Caceres.
I'd heard wonderful things about the old city of Caceres, and it deserves all the applause. It is World Heritage listed and is impressive for its collection of medieval and renaissance architecture and history. It is simply beautiful, strolling the streets is a delight.
But! What is even more, I arrived to discover that the WOMAD festival is on here this weekend(!), and the town is pretty much sold out of accommodation. I got a hotel list from the tourist centre and started phoning and found a cheap pension on the plaza which had kept 2 rooms available for pilgrims. Just enough for me and my new German friends! So, being that WOMAD in Adelaide (Australia) had always been on my 'to do' list, I'm staying 2 nights.
How lucky am I! And, there's an Australian band playing tonight, called 'The Barons of Tang'.
Other delights are worth mentioning are from yesterday's camino. As I had mentioned, we've been following an old roman route and a stock route. The stock route is still used and yesterday I passed sheep going in the opposite direction (I had noticed a facility for sorting and loading sheep onto trucks at the edge of the last village).
Later I followed a hare down the road (I think it was a hare rather than a rabbit), I followed it from a distance of about 70m for about 100m until I stood on gravel that crunched underfoot and it bolted.
At one point I crossed a country aerodrome, which I imagine only sees activity on weekend with people whose hobby is flying. And later I viewed a castle in the distance.
Waiting in the small town of Valdesalor for the bus I guess I witnessed some of the effects of Spain's high unemployment : young men (a core group of 6 or 7) hanging about smoking in the bus shelter. 1pm on a Friday and it seems nobody had anything better to do. Most weren't just smoking cigarettes, and one was employed as he kept taking money from people as they came and went. Maybe he was selling places on a bus trip;)
Anyway, I'm very excited to be in Caceres for WOMAD.
I'd heard wonderful things about the old city of Caceres, and it deserves all the applause. It is World Heritage listed and is impressive for its collection of medieval and renaissance architecture and history. It is simply beautiful, strolling the streets is a delight.
But! What is even more, I arrived to discover that the WOMAD festival is on here this weekend(!), and the town is pretty much sold out of accommodation. I got a hotel list from the tourist centre and started phoning and found a cheap pension on the plaza which had kept 2 rooms available for pilgrims. Just enough for me and my new German friends! So, being that WOMAD in Adelaide (Australia) had always been on my 'to do' list, I'm staying 2 nights.
How lucky am I! And, there's an Australian band playing tonight, called 'The Barons of Tang'.
Other delights are worth mentioning are from yesterday's camino. As I had mentioned, we've been following an old roman route and a stock route. The stock route is still used and yesterday I passed sheep going in the opposite direction (I had noticed a facility for sorting and loading sheep onto trucks at the edge of the last village).
Later I followed a hare down the road (I think it was a hare rather than a rabbit), I followed it from a distance of about 70m for about 100m until I stood on gravel that crunched underfoot and it bolted.
At one point I crossed a country aerodrome, which I imagine only sees activity on weekend with people whose hobby is flying. And later I viewed a castle in the distance.
Waiting in the small town of Valdesalor for the bus I guess I witnessed some of the effects of Spain's high unemployment : young men (a core group of 6 or 7) hanging about smoking in the bus shelter. 1pm on a Friday and it seems nobody had anything better to do. Most weren't just smoking cigarettes, and one was employed as he kept taking money from people as they came and went. Maybe he was selling places on a bus trip;)
Anyway, I'm very excited to be in Caceres for WOMAD.
Thursday, 9 May 2013
Camino: Life of a pilgrim
Since I'm not doing much, let me tell you what it's like to be a pilgrim.
Firstly, people get up early. I don't quite get it. I'm a natural early riser and usually I'm amongst the first up, or THE first up, when I'm travelling. It's great, it means that I can use the toilet and shower without having to queue. (I tend to stay in hostels with shared facilities).
On the camino though there are lots of people getting up and starting hiking in the dark. I understand that on the super busy Camino Frances people do this to beat the crowd to the next place and get the best bed. It's a snowballing problem with people getting up earlier and earlier to beat the others.
But, this camino isn't so busy, and if a bottom bunk is needed (like I've needed it recently for my knee) you can often call ahead and request one from a private albergue. The days are long, in terms of daylight hours, so really there isn't a need to rush. Some say they are beating the heat,, what heat? I haven't found it hot yet.
Then you hike. You carry all your things and the water and snacks needed. Some days are more than 30kms without passing a town. If you pass through a town you can, of course, stop to buy food and drink.
Pilgrims mostly stay at Albergues. They are special Pilgrims hostels. Most towns on route have a municipal albergue, run by the town council. Some have a private hostels/albergues, and some have both. Some people are carrying tents and they camp.
Albuergues are all different. The municipal ones are usually more basic. The beds are usually bunk beds, and so far I think I've had up to 24 beds in a room. My best had 2 beds in the room and I had it to myself. Both of these were municipal.
Some have no bedding (although, if, like me, you don't have a sleeping bag, there has so far always been a blanket available). I travel with a silk sleep sheet, and in only one place I have they provided sheets so I'm pleased I have it.
To stay at the municipal albergue you must have a pilgrims credential. Some of the privates also demand a credential, others just have a different price for people without a credential.
A credential is kind of like a 'Pilgrims Passport'. It can be obtained from 'Friends of the Camino' associations around the world, purchased from a few private businesses associated with the pilgrimage, or, if you are catholic and making a religious pilgrimage, you can get one from your Catholic Church. I bought mine for €2 from Triana Backpackers (where I started from) in Seville.
On arrival at the Albergue, municiple or private, the 'Hospitelero' (host), writes your details in a book and stamps your credential. He or she then takes payment. Mostly it's €10, but it can be as simple as no fee but a request for a donation.
Then you pick the best bed available in the dorm. I haven't yet had to go on top, but I teamed with fast walkers... And now I have a bad knee I'm beating the crowds by taking the bus.
Then everybody does 2 things: shower and laundry. There might be just 2 bathrooms (with toilet and shower in the same room) for 28 pilgrims. I like to remind myself that the slum in Mumbai had something like 1 toilet for 350 families, and this is better and a choice. People are mostly very efficient and the wait is never long. Beauty queens and kings don't seem to go on pilgrimages or stay in albergues.
The Spanish close most shops between 2 and 5, and that's when lunch is served in the restaurants, dinner is after 7.30. Usually there is some place offering a pilgrims menu for €7-9. It'll be a first plate (soup, salad, pasta, etc), a second plate (meat and potato chips), bread, dessert, and a drink (beer, wine, water, or soft drink). This could be had for lunch or dinner, but I usually have a late lunch and then eat something light for dinner.
In the late afternoon most will take a wonder in the town streets or sit around talking. Or, as is the modern day, they'll be on their smart phone using the Internet.
Then, while the rest of Spain never sleeps (at 9pm kids are playing in the plaza and men are walking dogs) pilgrims go to bed between 10 and 11.
Earplugs are necessary. With so many people in a room there'll be snorers... And there was the time when I apparently kept people awake with my teeth chatting due to the cold!
Also worth a mention is that old European men have no qualms about walking around the dormitory in their underwear, no matter what shape they are in. They'll even have conversations with you whilst so underdressed.
And, if you're leaving early its best to have your clothes and bag ready and at the door so as not to disturb the couple of people who aren't getting up so early.
Firstly, people get up early. I don't quite get it. I'm a natural early riser and usually I'm amongst the first up, or THE first up, when I'm travelling. It's great, it means that I can use the toilet and shower without having to queue. (I tend to stay in hostels with shared facilities).
On the camino though there are lots of people getting up and starting hiking in the dark. I understand that on the super busy Camino Frances people do this to beat the crowd to the next place and get the best bed. It's a snowballing problem with people getting up earlier and earlier to beat the others.
But, this camino isn't so busy, and if a bottom bunk is needed (like I've needed it recently for my knee) you can often call ahead and request one from a private albergue. The days are long, in terms of daylight hours, so really there isn't a need to rush. Some say they are beating the heat,, what heat? I haven't found it hot yet.
Then you hike. You carry all your things and the water and snacks needed. Some days are more than 30kms without passing a town. If you pass through a town you can, of course, stop to buy food and drink.
Pilgrims mostly stay at Albergues. They are special Pilgrims hostels. Most towns on route have a municipal albergue, run by the town council. Some have a private hostels/albergues, and some have both. Some people are carrying tents and they camp.
Albuergues are all different. The municipal ones are usually more basic. The beds are usually bunk beds, and so far I think I've had up to 24 beds in a room. My best had 2 beds in the room and I had it to myself. Both of these were municipal.
Some have no bedding (although, if, like me, you don't have a sleeping bag, there has so far always been a blanket available). I travel with a silk sleep sheet, and in only one place I have they provided sheets so I'm pleased I have it.
To stay at the municipal albergue you must have a pilgrims credential. Some of the privates also demand a credential, others just have a different price for people without a credential.
A credential is kind of like a 'Pilgrims Passport'. It can be obtained from 'Friends of the Camino' associations around the world, purchased from a few private businesses associated with the pilgrimage, or, if you are catholic and making a religious pilgrimage, you can get one from your Catholic Church. I bought mine for €2 from Triana Backpackers (where I started from) in Seville.
On arrival at the Albergue, municiple or private, the 'Hospitelero' (host), writes your details in a book and stamps your credential. He or she then takes payment. Mostly it's €10, but it can be as simple as no fee but a request for a donation.
Then you pick the best bed available in the dorm. I haven't yet had to go on top, but I teamed with fast walkers... And now I have a bad knee I'm beating the crowds by taking the bus.
Then everybody does 2 things: shower and laundry. There might be just 2 bathrooms (with toilet and shower in the same room) for 28 pilgrims. I like to remind myself that the slum in Mumbai had something like 1 toilet for 350 families, and this is better and a choice. People are mostly very efficient and the wait is never long. Beauty queens and kings don't seem to go on pilgrimages or stay in albergues.
The Spanish close most shops between 2 and 5, and that's when lunch is served in the restaurants, dinner is after 7.30. Usually there is some place offering a pilgrims menu for €7-9. It'll be a first plate (soup, salad, pasta, etc), a second plate (meat and potato chips), bread, dessert, and a drink (beer, wine, water, or soft drink). This could be had for lunch or dinner, but I usually have a late lunch and then eat something light for dinner.
In the late afternoon most will take a wonder in the town streets or sit around talking. Or, as is the modern day, they'll be on their smart phone using the Internet.
Then, while the rest of Spain never sleeps (at 9pm kids are playing in the plaza and men are walking dogs) pilgrims go to bed between 10 and 11.
Earplugs are necessary. With so many people in a room there'll be snorers... And there was the time when I apparently kept people awake with my teeth chatting due to the cold!
Also worth a mention is that old European men have no qualms about walking around the dormitory in their underwear, no matter what shape they are in. They'll even have conversations with you whilst so underdressed.
And, if you're leaving early its best to have your clothes and bag ready and at the door so as not to disturb the couple of people who aren't getting up so early.
Tuesday, 30 April 2013
Camino: Via de la Plata, Day 1: robbed!
The trek can only get better for me. It was cold, it rained, and then I got robbed: At knife point by men wearing balaclavas.
Doing one of the Camino's is largely considered quite safe. It is considered that only a particularly nasty type would rob a pilgrim.
I was walking alone (as I had always wanted to do the pilgrimage alone), when 2 men came out from behind a tree, wearing balaclavas and carrying knives. The knife I remember was a big kitchen knife, I've forgotten the other.
At first a thought that it was some joke. That these 2 were going to a party, or something (ridiculous, as I was still in a rural area, but I'm clearly the trusting type).
They said something like take off your bags. But I was pretty reluctant so one snatched at my phone and tore it from the leather case I've been using. Then they grabbed at the bags. I had a daypack on my back and an old satchel bag at my front (just with food, but the phone had been attached to this), and an external money belt that my shirt was covering (which I've been travelling with for years).
I ended up on the ground. I'm not sure if they pushed me, but maybe I went to the ground to double over for protection (does this protect me?? I was guarding my money belt.)
I screamed as I knew there had been 4 Spanish pilgrims who passed me not much earlier and I thought they might hear me. One man told the other to make me shut up, I didn't want to find out what that meant so I shut up.
I pleaded, in Spanish. 'Not my passport' the talker replied that they just wanted money. I opened my money belt and gave them my money: about €60 and some US dollars which I'd had for years but not bothered to convert (sometimes USD are useful), I think it was $83. I had to show that it had no more money.
They spread the contents of all my bags all over the road. I guess so I wouldn't be able to leave immediately and to see if I had more cash, they opened each container I had: like toiletry bag,first aid kit. I heard camera get mentioned, but since mine wasn't working I left it in Seville in my backpack, so they lucked out there.
I wanted my phone back so I pleaded for it, telling them it had my guide and everything I needed for the camino (I'm travelling with apps only). They said no, that they'd leave it for me on the corner. I didn't trust or like this idea, so I pleaded that they just let me look at it. Yep, it seems I was trying to negotiate!
The talker got the other guy to give the phone to me to look at. I told them it doesn't work as a phone in Spain, only in Australia. I took the sim out to show them. Amazingly they stood and watched while I did this. It's actually a Spanish SIM card, but it's hard to tell. So I was lying, but I'm sure it's okay.
Then I think they saw a glimpse of another pilgrim coming and they casually walked away, with just my money.
I saw the pilgrim. I was rapidly throwing things into my bag, bawling my eyes out and hoping this was a pilgrim and not another thief.
The pilgrim walked me to town and we went to the police station. I made a statement and the police have been searching.
Tomorrow I'll walk with my new pilgrim friend. If he'd been in front of me he'd have been robbed. And at the hostel I met the 4 Spaniards, one of them started solo last year but had everything (all bags, money, everything) stolen earlier on (at a point where they might have saved me today because today the 4 of them had been following me for a large stretch.)
Everyone has asked if I'll keep going. "Yes", I say, "it can only get better."
Doing one of the Camino's is largely considered quite safe. It is considered that only a particularly nasty type would rob a pilgrim.
I was walking alone (as I had always wanted to do the pilgrimage alone), when 2 men came out from behind a tree, wearing balaclavas and carrying knives. The knife I remember was a big kitchen knife, I've forgotten the other.
At first a thought that it was some joke. That these 2 were going to a party, or something (ridiculous, as I was still in a rural area, but I'm clearly the trusting type).
They said something like take off your bags. But I was pretty reluctant so one snatched at my phone and tore it from the leather case I've been using. Then they grabbed at the bags. I had a daypack on my back and an old satchel bag at my front (just with food, but the phone had been attached to this), and an external money belt that my shirt was covering (which I've been travelling with for years).
I ended up on the ground. I'm not sure if they pushed me, but maybe I went to the ground to double over for protection (does this protect me?? I was guarding my money belt.)
I screamed as I knew there had been 4 Spanish pilgrims who passed me not much earlier and I thought they might hear me. One man told the other to make me shut up, I didn't want to find out what that meant so I shut up.
I pleaded, in Spanish. 'Not my passport' the talker replied that they just wanted money. I opened my money belt and gave them my money: about €60 and some US dollars which I'd had for years but not bothered to convert (sometimes USD are useful), I think it was $83. I had to show that it had no more money.
They spread the contents of all my bags all over the road. I guess so I wouldn't be able to leave immediately and to see if I had more cash, they opened each container I had: like toiletry bag,first aid kit. I heard camera get mentioned, but since mine wasn't working I left it in Seville in my backpack, so they lucked out there.
I wanted my phone back so I pleaded for it, telling them it had my guide and everything I needed for the camino (I'm travelling with apps only). They said no, that they'd leave it for me on the corner. I didn't trust or like this idea, so I pleaded that they just let me look at it. Yep, it seems I was trying to negotiate!
The talker got the other guy to give the phone to me to look at. I told them it doesn't work as a phone in Spain, only in Australia. I took the sim out to show them. Amazingly they stood and watched while I did this. It's actually a Spanish SIM card, but it's hard to tell. So I was lying, but I'm sure it's okay.
Then I think they saw a glimpse of another pilgrim coming and they casually walked away, with just my money.
I saw the pilgrim. I was rapidly throwing things into my bag, bawling my eyes out and hoping this was a pilgrim and not another thief.
The pilgrim walked me to town and we went to the police station. I made a statement and the police have been searching.
Tomorrow I'll walk with my new pilgrim friend. If he'd been in front of me he'd have been robbed. And at the hostel I met the 4 Spaniards, one of them started solo last year but had everything (all bags, money, everything) stolen earlier on (at a point where they might have saved me today because today the 4 of them had been following me for a large stretch.)
Everyone has asked if I'll keep going. "Yes", I say, "it can only get better."
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