Camino: Via de la Plata, Day 3

Today was a beautiful but long day: Almost 30kms and finishing with a steep uphill climb. But I made it!

I spent most the day in disappointment that I hadn't yet seen the Iberian Pigs as mentioned in my guide. Let me explain: I love pigs! I also love elephants and camels, but pigs are the best.

It's this extreme: I have a wonderful book at home. It's called "Beautiful Pigs", and has pictures (photos, drawings, and paintings) of different breeds of pigs. I love this book. If I'm feeling down I only have to browse the beautiful pigs to feel better! I do not like caricatures or things that do not look like real pigs, so forget acquiring for me some cutesy pig thing. I love pigs, not piggy things.

Anyway, back to today...
I was disappointed for 29kms of walking but finally I saw a pen of the black Iberian sows just 10 minutes from our pilgrims hostel. Then I showered and went to a restaurant to try the local speciality: Iberian pig.

I still walked with my 6 companions today, but I have my confidence back. This afternoon I went for a walk in this lovely village alone. And I got money from the ATM! (And so repaid the Italian.)

This village is small but sweet. And I love how on every tall building of each town (so the church) there is a stork in its' nest.

On the walk today we passed through the 'Parque Natural Sierra Norte' (north mountain range natural park). We passed old cork plantations (each 7 years the bark, which is cork, is taken), plantations of pines for pine nuts, cattle farms, goats and finally pigs. The wildflowers were still spectacular and the views (as we had that steep walk) were magnificent.

And now I'm exhausted.

Camino: Day 4; another problem

This morning I said goodbye to my Italian knight (well he was the one who came along when I was robbed and then escorted me everywhere). It was sad to say goodbye but he wanted to do 2 stages today (so 33kms) and I only wanted to do one (13kms). So, it was better to say goodbye.

One of the Spaniards went with him and the other 3 Spaniards made an early departure for the 13kms, while I stayed back to walk with the Spaniard who had joined the group alone. He was making a late start to go to the post office and send some excess luggage home.

I chose to walk with Pedro because I was having to walk too fast with all the others and I felt that with just him we could walk a bit slower. Put 6 men in a group and they all seemed to be trying to walk the fastest.

Anyway, regardless of my slow down today I now have the results of walking too fast. My left knee became very painful in the last hour of hiking today.

I've been googling a solution. It seems that walking too fast and pushing beyond what you are used to can cause such problems. Rest seems the best advice at this stage. Ice was also mentioned, but I'm already cold here.

I had felt I needed to walk with the group for safety. But by doing so it seems that I'm doing damage to my knee. Can I win?

Tomorrow I'll see if I can take a bus to the next stop. And rest. And see where that leads me.

Oh, and today we walked through a field of pigs! ... But they were all sleeping :(. An English guy turned up here today, he said the pigs licked him, and showed me a video. I'm a bit jealous really.

This town, called Real de la Jarra, has 2 castles. They are possibly really cool, but I'm barely walking so I really don't know.

Camino: Via de la Plata: Day 2

I have accidentally become one of the pilgrims who goes without money. I had heard stories of people who do this, one from the Netherlands with just €5 in his pocket, relying on the hospitality of others to provide for him. He made it to Santiago with the €5 still in his pocket.

I had never intended to travel this way, but yesterday I was robbed of my cash. The Pilgrims Refugio refused to charge me the €10, and having no money I was in no position to argue. The Italian took me to dinner, and when I asked for company to the ATM he said not to worry I could relax and do that tomorrow. I had been fairly shaken, I didn't want to go to an ATM alone (I'm weary of them in Spain anyway due to the thieving of gypsies), so I said okay, I can repay you tomorrow.

Today I we hiked together and now I have tried the ATMs in this town, and neither of them worked. I called my bank and they said that they have no record of my trying and therefore it seems there is no communication and I should try another. They said my account is fine and there is money. There are no more ATMs here, but I have a bed for tonight (this one asks for a donation from pilgrims), and food for tomorrow and my Italian friend has fed me all day.

After yesterday's robbery I managed to have not 1 but 6 bodyguards for today's walking: The Italian, the 4 Spaniards, and another Spaniard who had been hiking alone. They are all older men and nobody speaks English, but I've appreciated their company.

My Spanish is re-emerging well. I had hardly spoken it for 3.5 years, but yesterday I had the big test of describing the thieves and events in Spanish for an official police testimony. Four of the Spanish companions speak Andalusian Spanish so I often have trouble understanding them, in fact it is easiest to talk with the Italian.

The hike today and yesterday (although overshadowed by other events) was spectacular. I have passed fields of wheat, beets, olive trees, oranges trees, and acorn trees (acorns are to feed the Iberian pigs). Some portions of the walk have been beside roads, but mostly it's been on paths through the countryside. Uncultivated soils, like those beneath the trees or beside the roads, are covered in wildflowers. It's like the best possible cottage garden, only endless in size. I recognize daisies of varying types, red poppies, rosemary and lavender; but there are so many more flowers. I have seen herds of cows: both dairy and beef, goats on a farm for producing goats cheeses, and many beautiful Spanish horses. The villages are pretty and well cared for. Yesterday I also passed roman ruins, but as it was raining I kept walking with barely a glance in their direction.

At the end of day 2 my leg muscles are feeling it. I wonder what my legs will be like at the end? I didn't prepare for the camino... Although I walked a lot in India I didn't have much opportunity for country hiking.

Twice today we passed men with knives. I was surprised and untrusting after yesterday's events, but they were simply picking wild asparagus.

Hopefully tomorrow I'll get money. At any rate we have a big day ahead: 30kms!