From Esquel there's an old train, run just for tourists a couple of times a week. La Trochita, or, in English, the Old Patagonian Express, runs on tracks just 75mm wide. It was a fun experience to ride it up to the Indian village of Nahuel Pan, although we were dissappointed that the museum at the top was closed.
Inside the little train it was rather cramped. H was too big to be comfortable in the seats, but we found there was much more room in the cafeteria carriage and so we drank coffee going both up and down.
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