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Monday, 12 April 2010

Duck Canyon, with no ducks

Huaraz to Chimbote and on to Trujillo, via the Cañon de Pato (Canyon of Duck)
Wednesday 7 April 2010

   I didn´t see a single duck all day. But they did seem to have a lot of duck on the menu in those parts.

   To leave Huaraz, I took the scenic route, 8 hours of a very rough road, along the Cañon de Pato. It was a very scenic day. There must have been about 40 tunnels... I lost count about half way down and I was at 17 when I lost count. The tunnels are important to me... I get anxious in some tunnels. I´m not sure why it´s some and not others... maybe I sense their stability! I was exhausted by the end of the day.
  
Cañon de Pato

Cañon de Pato

At the bottom.... back to the coastal desert.

Notes
Scenic Bus Journey S/25
Lunch at bus stop S/9

Sunday, 11 April 2010

Touching ice and the biggest Bromeliads in the world.

Huaraz, Peru
5-7 April 2010

Huaraz is all about mountian climbing and serious trekking. So I limped around town on my sore foot and booked a tour to see the Puya Raimondi (or Queen of the Andes) plants. (For those who don't know, I am very interested in plants).
   The plants take 100 years to grown before they shoot up a massive flower spike, giving them a height of 10-15metres, and then they flower and slowly die. Each plant will have more than 3000 flowers, but unfortunately the guide said they had flowered last September and so now many were in the process of dying. It is the largest known Bromeliad and the largest Puya (which is something new to me).
   You couldn't just go see the plants without paying a lot of money, so I was also obliged to keep going up the mountain to touch a glacier. I liked this glacier... more than others I had seen it was easy to comprend the slow moving mass of ice. And it is mighty impressive to think that within 100kms of the coast of Peru, mountains reach a height of 6000m! I went to 5000m, and at the glacier, to save my foot, I hired a horse.


One of the vistas on the tour.


A Puya Raimondi (or Queen of the Andes) plant and me.

A Puya Raimondi up close.

Postouri Glacier

My horse (for a little while), take note of the rope work. Old, but lovely.

Those mounds that looks a bit like haystacks are actually houses. About 2m across at most.
Notes:
Huarmey to Pativilca by collectivo taxi. S/10
Pativilca to Huaraz by bus S/20 (Collective Taxi option S/30)
Accomodation: Hostal Condores, S/30, private bath, cable (BBCNews!) *** (it lacked character)
Day tour S/25

Friday, 9 April 2010

Santa Semana in Peru

Huarmey, Peru
28 March - 5 April 2010

   There are 2 big annual events on the Latin American calendar each year… Carnival and Easter (Semana Santa). Throughout Latin America you will find various big fantastic events for both of these. I have celebrated carnival years ago in San Pedro, Belize (the Isla Bonita that Madonna sings about), and this year in Oruro, Bolivia. But despite all my time spent in Latin American countries, I still haven´t managed to experience one of their fantastic Semana Santa’s.

   This time, I didn´t plan anything on account of my bad sore toe (I would never have thought a toe could be as much bother as it has been). I waited that week in Lima, and I got offered some ‘work’ in Huarmey (4 hours North of Lima on the coast), writing the English language publicity for a new hostel that was opening and wanting to attract more backpackers, rather than Peruvians. And so, with sore toe, I went to Huarmey knowing that working in front of a computer would provide a useful distraction to celebrating Semana Santa.
   I can however be happy to know that I saw I real Peruvian Semana Santa. Huarmey is a place that Peruvians, mostly from Lima, go to for Easter … to be at the beach. Although about 50% of Peru is Catholic, most, in reality, don´t practice their religion. And, just like Australians, many head to the beach for Easter.
   I spent the first couple of days in Huarmey discovering what their was to do in the area. It was interesting, and I enjoyed having a project to work on. My hosts paid for pretty much everything (that was the deal), and really looked after me spectacularly well. I dug pretty deep to find out all their was to do in the area… I think even my hosts was surprised!
   All in all, it was a very enjoyable week. If you want to see my work (I created a website for the hostel) go to http://www.jaimecrazyperu.wordpress.com/ .


My hosts and me... Eusebio, me, Ana.

One of the Tuquillo beaches

Hundreds of these bright crabs were on the beach.. I was lucky to corner one for a photo.

Looking the opposite way from the beach... you see dunes.

My hosts bought fish fresh off the boats.

Princess Beach

I´m still drawn in by the houses made from reed mats.

Huarmey River in Huarmey valley.

Local veggie delivery.

A piggery.

We paid a visit to Ana´s mum at the cemetary. Despite being catholic, they don´t do many cremations.

Sunday, 4 April 2010

oh good! Starbucks in Peru.

Oh good!
That´s nice to know, I mean if ever I feel no-one cares.
Especially since Michael Jackson died (he loved me).

(Oh and I know, I´m anti Starbucks, but I needed to sit down (due to my toe) and they have a guard to stop the Limeños hassling you, and a clean toilet).

Starbucks, Miraflores, Lima.

Thursday, 1 April 2010

Oh, let me try out torture in the turture museum in Lima, Peru!

Lima, Peru
18-28 March 2010

   My intention was to spend 4 days in Lima, I wanted to finally spend a weekend dancing Salsa and other latin styles, and so I figured, arrive on Thursday, dance all nights possible, see the sights and leave ... because I don´t much like cities.

   But it wasn´t to be. I arrived Thursday, met a local who said he knew where to go dancing, went dancing and it wasn´t much 'chop', went sightseeing the next day, got to the Museum of the Inquisition (the very building and equipment they used to torture people who didn´t seem to be quite on the right track), fell up some stairs, and then couldn´t walk, let alone dance. I had to stay in Lima and rest. Boring! (And you can perhaps see haw this post got it´s title.)
   The damage was to the middle toe of my left foot. Eventually I decided I had better get it X-Rayed, and it wasn´t broken, but seriously damaged (my Spanish and the doctors English may have stopped me getting a good definition here). At least I was staying in a nice area (very like New Farm in Brisbane), had a nice private room, and a big TV, Cable, and DVD player. I am writing this 12 days later, I finally moved on, but walking still hurts and tires me a lot. I never really got to dance, and didn´t see a lot of the sights either.


Prior to falling, I went to a museum with lots of Pre-Columbian Artifacts. At first I wondered about the seeming impracticality of water vessels such as this, but it is actually very clever. As you pour from it, it whistles like a flute.

The museum of Inquisition has a fantastic roof, but I wasn´t even looking at it when I tripped. 

Lima´s main Cathedral.


The view from Larcomar, the very Global shopping centre near where I was accommodated. The shopping centre had everything you´d expect in the western world.


I liked this! At nights in the Parque de la Reserva they have a fantastic fountains and lights show. Ok, it is a very wasteful use of resources, but it´s very well done too. And we´ve seen play fountains for kids, this one is for adults... you try to get to the middle without getting wet as the fountain constantly changes. Being that I was having trouble walking I didn´t try, but if I am ever back there....


My Limeño friend, Juan Carlos, took me sightseeing. He obviously was impressed by the Saints buried in the church, but I liked the tile work and the gardens.


Housing, Lima style.


View of Lima. All that area of white even boxes.. well, that´s the cemetary.

Forget the traffic lights, many street corners have someone in a box (middle of photo, behind the car) guiding traffic.

Saw a baptism in the surf. And they say that the water is unsafe for swimming in Lima.

I had trouble capturing this photo from the bus window, but curved blue buildings like this surround a big round-a-bout, very impressive. 

The Drive North out of Lima, sand dunes right to the pacific ocean.

Another difficult bus window photo. But all these roofs are those of chicken sheds. Each shed apparently held 5000 chickens, most clusters were of 12-18 sheds, there were clusters every 5-15 kms for probably 200 kms. Apparently they have the distance between them to stop the spread of disease. I learnt last year that currently they are maturing chickens in 8 weeks.... that´s a lot of chickens being processed right here.

Notes:
Accommodation in Miraflores, Lima, Friends House, $11 Private Room, shared bath, breakfast included. *****
Bus Pisco to Lima $4 with PeruBus… no rest on this bus, every 15 minutes another person gets on and checks you have a ticket.