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Sunday, 31 October 2010

Hostel tout

It seems that I might be paying an extra $1 a day for my accomodation. This is because we (4 of us off the bus) met a tout on the street who gave us a brochure for this hostel and told us a little about it. His name, Roberto, was written on the top of he brochure and he would have watched us enter the hostel, seen that we checked in, and then gone to collect his money.
I don't mind really. I'm sure it's not a fabulous way to make money and he would rather do something else, but it is honest and he isn't begging. It also goes directly to the person needing it and isn't swallowed up by some administration like in many charities. In all reality the $1 isn't much for us foreign tourists, but can make a big difference to someone else.

Stuck in Iberos, Argentina!

28-30 October, 2010
Colonia Pellegrini, Reserva Provincial Esteros Del Ibera


   It seems I am stuck. It is really a shame because with just over a month to go I feel like time is running out and I have to be more careful.
   I am in a place called Colonia Pellegrini at Reserva Provincial Esteros Del Ibera. It is in Argentina. It is an area rich in wildlife, especially bird life, and is basically a big wetland of aquatic plants and floating islands. I currently have a German travel companion and after a long day of buses yesterday we arrived here last night just before dark. This morning during our boat tour (one of the few things there are to do here) it started to rain. And 6 hours later it hasn't stopped and the roads have now been declared impassable. This is a shame because we had intended to do the boat tour, then a hike or two, (the boat tour was at 6am) and then hit the road.
   I hope the weather clears soon, but it looks set in. And I don't want to just keep moving because I only have a month left, I also didn't bring enough cash to this town.
   Oh, golly gee! It just starting bucketing down!
   This mornings boat tour, rain aside, was actually very good. We were accompanied by two keen bird watchers and I always find it a bonus to have people of a particular interest in a group. We saw lots of birds (whose names I will not remember), caimans, and capybara. I particularly enjoyed the lightning across the wetlands; my travel companion didn't like it though, saying that she would prefer to be a home during a thunder storm than in a boat. No sense of adventure in that!
   When the rain clears we will have to wait for the roads to dry, so maybe I will do some walks then. Until then there's company, reading, and blogging (no photos as I am writing from iPhone).

Next day....
   At 3pm I decided the whether had cleared enough to go for a walk. My timing was good, I only had to put my raincoat on once. I was able to complete 3 short walking trails they had on offer. I was delighted when I finally saw an armadillo! And pleased too that I also saw a deer, howler monkey, some big lizards, and more capybara.
   Some other tourists were also keen to leave town, so we contracted a man with a 4 x 4 to bring us out of Colonia Pellegrini this morning. It was a slippery boggy path, but the man did well and got the 5 of us out just fine.

 The road in, from Mercedes, took about 3.5 hours. It was dirt all the way, but ok.

 On my first walk to the lagoon I couldn´t get close to it, but I still thought it was pretty.

Cute huh? Well I like them... this is a Capybara.

 Caimans too.

 Small Deer that was wary of us, but didn´t want to abandon the berries either. 

Armadillo! This fellow was so cute, he was busy digging his nose in the dirt, hop and dig, hop and dig, and then he smelt me and the others and left.

 Orchids and Bromeliads abound in this forest.

 Sun coming through onto the view on marshlands.

 The marshes had a lot of flowers you might find in a garden at home.

The road out, slippery and boggy, but we made it.

 Our driver, Hector and his 4 x 4 which got us through. Great job Hector!

Notes:
I loved the reserve and would definitely recommend it to anyone else thinking about it. Transport is tricky but there are transfers direct from there to Posados, or you can hire a 4 x 4 like we did (it cost us $AR1000, so $AR200 each, but was a third of the time needed to go back to Mercedes and via Corrientes and that option would have cost about $AR175 each and required changing and waiting for buses 2 times.) The contact in Posadas in Hector email: coatihector@hotmail.com . Phone 0054-03752-15528258.
Accommodation: the first place we tried was booked up. We stayed our first night at San Cayetano $AR60, the second in Hospedaje Ibera $AR50 both were fine.

Friday, 22 October 2010

Off to learn to be a Gaucho

Ok, excuse me for not writing for the next week.... I am off to learn about being a Uruguayan Guacho (cowboy). Yeehaa!

Bad Vegetarian in Montevideo

Montevideo, Uruguay
17-19 October 2010

   I am not a vegetarian and have never claimed to be. But for the past couple of years I have turned to eating more and more vege meals, and with this I have been acused of being a vegetarian.
   My reasons for eating vegetarian has not to do with the killing of animals. I was raised (age 5-12) on a farm and I have always been quite frank about the killing of animals for meat. But I do not like much of the way animals are farmed in our modern society... feed lot cattle, hormone fed chicken, pigs that probably wouldn´t function as anything but meat factories, etc. And so I started eating vegetarian or meat that I could select as been more ethically grown. More importantly for me, I switched for environmental reasons. I don´t imagine ever switching completely to a vegetarian diet, and I love eating fish. I now first consider Vegetarian options for my eating, but I will eat meat for a number of reasons. I will eat meat when I am okay with how it has been grown (In Australia my choice is Kangaroo, or free range). I will eat small portions of meat when I crave meat. I eat meat when a host presents it to me (I hate to be an ungrateful or difficult guest). And I will eat meat when some place is famous for some dish involving meat. I am firstly a traveler.
  And so this is how I came to really enjoy the dish pictured below when I visited Montevideo. It is called Matambre, which sounds like a rough version of Spanish for what translates to Hunger killer. I had just a half portion, plenty enough for me, and washed it down with a glass of Tannat. Tannat is a Uruguayan Merlot (red wine). It was one of the best meals I have ever had, and I had it perched on a stool watching the activity of the meats being cooked and served. It cost $12, wine included.
   I also checked out the Tango dancing in Montevideo. It was Monday night, but, just like Buenos Aires, the night doesn´t seem to matter, there were still lots of people at the place called JovenTango. From what I saw, I would describe Montevidean(?) Tango as more homely, less complex and more comfortable than Argentine Tango. The women wore far more sensible shoes. I enjoyed my night out in Montevideo, but feel like I really want to experience more Argentine Tango, so I will look for it again when I return to that country.

The local lock seller might have thought this one up. If you put the initials of two people on a lock, and lock it to this fountain/fence, and those two meet at this fountian... their love will be sealed. (Or something like that.)

I hired a bicycle and cycled 4 hours along the coast of Montevideo. Montevideo is one the River Plata, as is Tigre which I visited from Buenos Aires, both have the same problem of dead and dying fish. Parts of the ride smelt really bad. The bike cost just $1 per hour!

Other parts of the bike ride were much more pleasant and overall I loved cycling along Montevideos coast. 

Uruguayans love drinking Maté. See the thermos hooked under the arm and the mate cup in his hand. This is very common.

This is the grill at Mercado del Puerto where I ate the fantastic Matambre.

And here it is... Matambre. Yummo! Basically it is the part between the ribs and the skin on the cow, rolled with spices, capsicum, more stuff... yummo!

Notes:
Accomodation, Montevideo, El Viajero Downtown and Suites. ok.


Colonia

Colonia, Uruguay
16-17 October 2010

   Colonia is just across the massive River Plata from Buenos Aires and should be visited if you have the opportunity to pass this way. The town isn´t big and you you could do it in a few hours and then keep going to Montevideo without passing a night in Colonia. Many people do Colonia as a day trip from Buenos Aires. It is a very pretty town. If you want to do museums there, remember that they close early or you will miss them as I did.

 Street of Sighs.

Ruins and Lighthouse 

Streets of Colonia

Notes
Accomodation: Hostel Colonial $12.50 dorm. It just a one night stop, so OK, but the hostel lacks in a lot of ways if you want to stay longer.
Boat from Buenos Aires to Colonia www.buquebus.com

Thursday, 21 October 2010

Protests in Buenos Aires

The people here (Buenos Aires and Uruguay) have turned the protest march into a meer protest. They sit in cars and buses while travelling down the road (together, multiple vehicles) and honk horns, bang drums, and wave flags out the window. Sometimes an entire bus of men will get distracted by a female pedestrian and honk and yell at her instead.
It all looks like more of a party to me than a political move.

Tuesday, 19 October 2010

Buenos Aires, photos

Buenos Aires, Argentina
1 - 16 October 2010


The part of Buenos Aires (BA) called 'La Boca' is artistic and full of cafes, Musicians and Tango Dancers working for tips. Many balconies had figurines... my guess is that this is the ex President Peron, his wife Eva (Evita), and well, I don´t know.

The Congress Building is styled afer the Capitol Building in Washington DC. 

 I went out to El Tigre for the day with some friends from the hostel. El Tigre is on the mouth of the River Plata, and out there we did a river cruise. El Tigre is lovely so long as you don´t look into the water where you will see thousands of dead fish and millions more gasping and dying. A guard told me that it was from contaminants starving the water of oxygen. Please people, stop buying things you don´t need as it all adds to pollution and it is up to all of us. (and yes, I should stay at home).

Peanuts, and hot water for your matè.  This was a niver view of El Tigre.

The cemetary in Recoleta, BA, is beautiful and I think it must take a lot of money to be buried there. The grave of Evita is the most visited, but it was built by a firm that makes bank vaults. Others are built by artists, architects and sculptures and are nicer to look at. I don't get why anybody would want such elaborance when dead. Please visit me and bring me flowers while I am alive and scatter my ashes to a good wind (so I can keep traveling) when I die!  

 

It was controversial when the Argentine government, having monetary problems, paid a lot of money to have this giant metal flower built. It is spectacular. It should open and close at dawn and dusk, but the mechanism broke down. 

Part of the San Martin statue in Plaza San Martin. 

They want the waterfront to be an attractive area for people to hang out. But it doesn´t have the cleanliness and fun of Brisbanes Southbank. And I think BA will remain dirty while they allow people to put there rubbish on the street and other people to open it and rummage/sort through it and then leave more to blow away before other people come to pick it up.


Notes
Accommodation Buenos Aires: Sabatico Travellers hostel. A fanastic place! Best price if you book via www.hostelbookers.com 
El Tigre boat cruise: $12.50 for 2 hours. Train to El Tigre 70c return. Bus to Train 30c each way. Cheap day out!
Coffee in BA $2. Set Lunch $6-10.

Friday, 15 October 2010

Murder on the dance floor

   My feet are killing me! I bought my new shoes from a place that makes their shoes and said that I coud get the heel shortened 1cm, so I did. It´s better but they are still killing me. You must understand that I have spent the last 10 months in comfortable shoes.... hiking sandles, hiking boots, and recently I traded the sandals for Crocs.... which are just heaven after wearing the heels.

   Yesterday I had my first private dance class. It was brilliant! I had taken two group classes with this teacher. The first week his assistant taught me and I didn´t get to dance with him. This week, in the group class, I did get a dance with him. After the class he asked me about my previous Tango experience, and was impressed how little I had (considering my progress) and said that he would like me as his private student so that he could brag about me. Maybe he says this to all his students, but it pleased me a bunch anyway!
   Actually, I follow a lead well and so I don't so much learn the new dance style (Tango) as learn the basic steps and to feel the new style and then a good dancer can lead me around fairly easily. At the end of this one private class the teacher has invited me to come out with him and his dancing friends on Friday night and now my head is really swollen, as I feel like I really have made an impression.
   Many people think that the Tango is just for the tourists and even some Argentines have told me this. But it clearly isn't. I have only been to one touristy Milonga and I didn't like it. Bueanos Aires is crammed full of dance halls which have something on every night. Mostly it seems to be the older Argentines attending many of these events... actually, at 35 years, it seems I am the prefect age to be learning and entering the scene. At 3am, I was tired and went back to the hostel, leaving an old crowd dancing on into the morning.

I loved seeing this ... BA is a gay friendly city and there are queer dance classes available. These guys actually danced with female partners, then they did this one piece for fun.

Notes
Private classes taken with Alberto Catala, his partner is Belen Montell. www.albertoybelen.com.ar . Ph 4784-9517 / 154-199-2219 

Monday, 11 October 2010

Two to tango

 My new shoes!

Ever since I started this trip I have been planning to come to Buenos Aires to learn a few tango moves. People often asked while I would leave it to the end of my trip if it was something I was so passionate about, and I would reply that I would be needing to buy shoes and maybe clothes that weren't really part of my usual backpacker ensemble.
In my first week here I have been to three tango events (milongas). The second two of those involved a group class, but I did better on the first night when an older man asked me to dance and he led well and showed me a few steps.

The first group class was also good because although there were not enough men to go around, they continually paired me with a man with some experience. On the third class I, unfortunately, had to dance with a beginner and the whole thing was disastrous!
I am quite skilled (people applaud when the right guy leads me) in dancing salsa and rock n roll (swing) and a few other styles but never before have I learnt with a beginner. I didn't know how lucky I had been to always have an expert to lead the way!
I also bought some tango shoes! I went to what is supposed to be Argentina's best supplier of tango shoes and bought some cool looking killer heels.
And occasionally some people ask about my leg (which I damaged twice in accidents in Peru)... Well that's why I have only been to 3 events in the week. My leg is still bothering me a little bit, the more I push the more it hurts so I'm not pushing it too hard. At least it's good enough that I can do a bit!

Friday, 8 October 2010

Flight back to South America

   They delayed my flight out of New York and I only happened to find out because I went to the Vayama site to print my ticket! Then I notice I arrive for my flight transfer (in Santiago) after I would be leaving... so that wouldn´t work so I had to get Vayama to fix it. How silly of them! But I got here ok.

The flight over the Andes was spectacular!

Wednesday, 6 October 2010

My New York, New York experience

New York, New York
23-30 September 2010

   Mum and I finished our vacation with a week in New York City. Whilst there we took a package of 4 tours (Downtown, Harlem, Brooklyn, and Nighttime) and even had a tour guide who said he would be appearing soon in episodes of Law and Order, due out in November. We went to the Broadway production of The Lion King... it was disappointing really, so will stick to seeing musicals in Australia since they have never disappointed me there. We also went to see the Blue Man group, and it was weirdly entertaining, I liked it, but almost didn´t.We also did a fantastic tour with the Lower East Side Tenement Museum, about the life of early immigrants to New York.

   New York is fantastic to visit... but gee I am glad I don´t live there!

A few years back I was fortunate enough to get a house sitting job for a friend of a friend in New York. I loved the Ellis Island museum so much I had to go back again. The museum is all about Ellis Islands role as an immigration facility from 1892 - 1924, it that time it processed a whopping 12 million steamship passengers!

American food portions are, mostly it seems, way to big. We got this Rueben Sandwich... enough for about 3 normal people, at priced at something like $26, plus another charge for sharing it, unless you get a side (like you need it!). Arrgh.... then I got a headache from eating a quater of it!

Time Square, New York, Thursday night. Note the bride and groom in the middle of it all.

This guide was very clever with his drum kit... and having fun and making great money!

 Mum and I walked the length of Central Park. It has lots of different areas, I particularly liked this one. See the Manhattan Skyline beyond pretty bit.

New York view from the Top of the Rock. Empire Sate building in the middle, without King Kong. 

Perhaps a reason why the ´smart´coutries seem to want all their citizens to be educated. 
Another way of saying this might me that All and All your just another brick in the Wall.
Photo taken in Harlem.

The Statue of Liberty. Yep, she is big!

Tuesday, 5 October 2010

Alternative stay in New York City

When I booked the accomodation for mum and I to stay in New York I booked it through a new website I had heard about called crashpadders.com. This website allows people to rent out their unused bedroom, couch, or apartment on a short term basis and some conveniently located accomodations can be obtained at economical prices and you can skip the hotel environment for a while.
I think it is a great idea. In today's economic climate there are many people looking to make dollars from what they aren't using. It is almost a bit like couchsurfing but with dollars involved, both use a system of references.
Unfortunately the system didn't work out for mum and I. We chose a new 'host' (one without references)... But hey, I was new and without references too. I submitted the online booking request for this apartment in Manhattan, and the host accepted. In booking with crashpadders if your request is accepted they (crashpadders) take a deposit at the time of acceptance, the balance to be paid on arrival.
But, strangley, I got an email from the host instructing me to pay the balance to him via Western Union. I gave it some thought and wrote back to say that by doing so I would have no safety net and so I would pay him on arrival as per the original agreement. He wrote to me again demanding that I pay the money in advance, and in this email the tone was horrible.
I forwarded his demand to crashpadders. They agree that he did not seem trustworthy and advised that they would refund my deposit and close his account. Prior to recieving the response from crashpadders we had already decided we wouldnt be staying in this guys house. I tried to call him to tell him so but he had given a false phone number. Mum and I made plans for a hotel instead.
It was unfortunate that I picked a dodgy one as I do believe that crashpadders is a great idea and I intend to give it another try in the future.
Interestingly, I just met someboby else with a similar story. She found accomodation for her New York stay on Craigs List. Her host asked that she pay $850 via Western Union in advance. She did, and was left standing on a New York street with her luggage, two elderly aunts, and no host. The host never showed and she realized she had been scammed out of $850 and needed to find alternative accomodation.
I guess the moral of this story is that if you want to stay short term somewhere other that the regular hotel type options then go through an official booking service, and follow their advice. It didn't work out for me this time but crashpadders.com did the right thing when advised of the goings on. Like I said, I intend to try again in the future.

Saturday, 2 October 2010

Auto flush toilets

America has a lot of automatically flushing toilets, I don't like them. I think they are a tremendous waste of water. It seems that the average one flushes at least twice with every visit. When I went to the cubicle just now to change shirt the automatic loo flushed 5 times!, clearly with each detection of movement from me.

And what is the point of these auto flush toilets? Sure you don't have to touch the toilet but you still have to unlock the cubicle door as they don't seem to have made it automatic yet. I imagine that if they did make the door automatic it would open as frequently as the toilet is flushing and all could be revealed to the waiting ladies.

So, I say, why have an automatically flushing toilet when you still need to touch something to get out? It, I say, is a waste of water and money.